Question 1

Accepted Answer

Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.1.Start the engine and allow it to warmup. Turn on the heater.2.Move the heater temperature switch from cooler to hotter and check for a change in air temperature.3.Turn off the engine. Open the hood and locate the heater control valve. It is usually mounted to the firewall on the passenger side.4.Verify that the temperature control cable is connected to the heater control valve and the valve is opening and closing. Check for coolant leaks at the valve.5.Allow the engine to cool down.6.Disconnect the control cable from the heater control valve.7.Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater control valve.8.Remove the old heater control valve.9.Install the new heater control valve.10.Reconnect the heater hoses and the control cable.11.Refill the radiator and overflow reservoir with coolant.12.Pressure test the cooling system and check for any leaks. Top off coolant in the radiator.13.Install the radiator cap.14.Start the engine and allow it to warmup. Turn on the heater and move the temperature switch from cooler to hotter. Verify that hot air is coming out.

Question 2

Accepted Answer

5 Tips For Tackling Your First Big Car RepairSo you want to graduate from oil changes to serious car repair. Welcome. But before you tear anything apart and find yourself in over your head, take these tips to heart.You're a capable weekend car mechanic. You'vegot basic tools and skills. You've mastered oil changes and tire rotations. Butwhen a big repair comes along, it's decision time. Take it on yourself, or callin a pro?That's the choice I faced at the end oflast summer, when my 1990 Mazda Miata suffered a crankshaft failure. Expectinga quick repair, I soon discovered the car needed a whole new engine—and Idiscovered this just after I'd disassembled it to the point that it couldn't beput back together.Instead of paying a mechanic to mend myMiata, I decided to try replacing the engine myself. I did it—eventually—thoughI made plenty of rookie mistakes on the way. Here's what I learned.Do Your ResearchAftermarket shop manuals are great forlearning the tools and parts you'll need, but they sometimes read like ageneral overview (step one: remove radiator, front bumper, and windshieldwasher reservoir). Internet forums can offer detailed instructions and tricksspecific to your car, usually with step-by-step photos. Unless you drivesomething really outlandish, there's probably a site like VWvortex orJeepsUnlimited to help you. But don't forget that Web forums, while helpful,are just Web forums. Get a factory service manual from your manufacturer ifyou're diving deep into a big repair.Set Up Your WorkspaceI started my teardown in the corner of myparents' two-car garage. I got all set to pull the engine when I discovered Ihad no room to maneuver my engine hoist. Even with two muscular brothers,moving a half-disassembled car was a masochist's game of Tetris. Sodon't make my mistake: Clear plenty of space before you start the job, andposition your car for maximum elbow room. I found the best spot was right inthe center of the garage, though not everyone in my family shared this view.Expect It to Take TimeThe first time doing a repair always takesthe longest. Tinkering on nights and weekends, my adventure lasted nearly amonth, far beyond what I'd anticipated. There were lots of trips for parts,tools, and advice, and times when sheer frustration halted my progress. Makealternative transportation plans before taking your car out of commission soyou don't get fired when your Saturday project is still in pieces on Mondaymorning.Take Pictures, Make Notes, Label EverythingWhen you're on step two of a big job, it'stempting to think you'll remember which bolt goes where, but by step 14 you'llhave a plethora of fasteners, washers, and clips lying around that give noindication where they came from. Save yourself a thousand headaches by beingorganized from the start. Use sandwich bags, empty egg crates, and plenty oflabels. A phone camera and a dry-erase board are indispensable for noting thelayout of wires, cables, and brackets, and neither one will blow away behindthe workbench when you open the garage door.Use a white-paint pen on metal parts toindicate where parts came from or their orientation. Choose a universalreference point, like "front of the car," "passenger side,"or "driver side," and label things with arrows and sides. Labelclearly based on situation too. Don't be afraid to write notes directly on thepart, or leave yourself notes about how things go back together, such as theorientation of the distributor relative to the block. Masking tape is also agreat tool as well. Loop it around a hose, wire, or connector and close a nice2-inch flap on the other side that you can use to label what it does or whereit goes.Make a Final ChecklistThere's a natural excitement to puttingeverything back together. You'll be tempted to hustle through the finaltouches. Don't. The last bit of wire routing, bolt tightening, or body-panelaligning is what separates a pro-quality repair from an embarrassing hack job,and if you slap it together for a test drive, you might never get around tocorrecting it. (Nobody's impressed by a guy in a Miata with no hood, frontfenders, or bumper—in case there was any doubt.)So make yourself a exhaustive finalchecklist, including everything you need to inspect, double-check, torque, andtest before you put that machine back on the road. Go over it at your desk orat the dining table—not in the garage, where you'll be anxious to get going onyour first drive.

Question 3

Accepted Answer

Wheel bearings are critical to the safe operation of any vehicle. These small components primarily "bear" the load of a mounted wheel/tire assembly, working to reduce friction during wheel rotation.Wheel bearing problemsAlthough bearings can last 100,000 miles or more, these mechanical elements can wear out over time. When this occurs, a driver will usually notice scraping noises as the vehicle is in motion in addition to experiencing a degree of wheel "shimmy" as one or more hub/wheel/tire assemblies wobble slightly under rotation.However, although these symptoms tend to represent bearing problems, suspension and brake issues also sound and behave similarly. So, check your vehicle before driving with existing bearing issues. Park the vehicle, simultaneously grasp the top edges of each individual tire assembly and attempt to push and pull the entire unit backward and forward. If a bearing issue exists, you will usually feel a slight movement when executing this process, further suggesting that you are on the right track. If not, then something else is probably due for expanded mechanical investigation.How-to tipsWhile the process of replacing one or more wheel bearings represents a fairly straightforward set of steps, it is first important to understand that there are two dissimilar bearing philosophies available in today’s market. In the former case, vehicles utilize a fully integrated approach, and consequently, the bearings themselves cannot be maintained, replaced, lubricated or "re-packed" individually. In this event, the entire bearing structure must be replaced as a single unit, thereby providing for a particularly simple replacement process.On the other hand, some vehicles still utilize a traditional approach based on the utilization of an outer bearing case, which typically houses four individual ball bearings that can be maintained accordingly. Since the latter approach offers a more expansive replacement experience, we will use this method as a task baseline.To begin, ensure that you park the vehicle on a flat surface, put the car in "park" (if you have an automatic transmission), or in first gear (if you have a manual transmission), and set the parking brake. This helps to limit any potential movement when lifting the wheel/tire assembly off the ground.To further enhance safety, use wheel chocks on all non-involved wheel/tire assemblies in order to help prevent the vehicle from moving suddenly.Loosen the lug nuts of the faulty wheel/tire assembly while still under suspension load. Once this process is complete, jack the car off the ground while ensuring easy access to the wheel/tire assembly. Once the assembly is clear, remove the lug nuts.Remove the wheel/tire assembly and set it aside.Remove the brake calipers (for a disc assembly) or the entire drum assembly in the latter case.Remove the integrated dust cover, its security cotter pin and the castle nut.Gently remove the disc or drum assembly.Unscrew each lug bolt and remove the hub from the stub axle.The bearing assembly is enclosed within the hub itself, so you will have to open the hub assembly in order to gain access to the bearing assembly.Using a hub puller, open the hub “clamshell,” allowing access to the bearing enclosure.Once you have access to the bearing area, use a chisel, hammer or grinder to remove and replace the bearing races and clean the knuckle.Remove any old grease, grime or other unwanted ferrous material using a degreaser and lots of shop rags.Once you believe that the hub backplane is cleaned appropriately, replace the races. Maintain the old bearings or replace the races with new bearings using a bearing packer, and then liberally apply grease to all internal components.Replace all previous hub and brake assemblies in reverse order.Finally, replace the wheel/tire assembly, and you’re ready to go.This step-by-step list is general, showing how a typical process might work, but each vehicle is different. Therefore, research and consider your own car, and your own mechanical capabilities, before attempting this DIY task.

Question 4

Accepted Answer

There are plenty of aftermarket head units—the boxes that radio hardware lives in—that have advanced features and can connect to smartphones, and many of these units are just a few hundred dollars. In many modern vehicles, the audio system is deeply integrated into a larger infotainment operating system. Even so, cars take three to four years to develop, so their technology often lags behind the best phone features on the market.  Since replacing a radio head unit is cheaper than replacing a car, this upgrade is a great option for keeping up with the times without spending a fortune.WHAT AND HOW TO BUYIf you want to upgrade your car stereo, better hope your vehicle subscribes to the DIN configuration. A single—DIN radio fits into a 2 x 7—inch slot, while a double-DIN size is 4 x 7 inches. While this standard made sense for automakers in the past, they've been moving away from DIN-sized units and toward built-in nonstandard stereos integrated with other systems of the car (alarm, navigation, etc.).All audio units operate similarly: 12-volt power comes in; circuitry and processors generate signals that drive screens and speakers. Mating a universal aftermarket radio to a model-specific speaker and power wiring can run the gamut from plug-and-play (easy) to running new wiring (hard). Fortunately, adapter kits can be ordered for just about every car now. Also check if an output converter is needed (a box that makes the new radio work with the factory speakers), as well as an antenna adapter or faceplate filler panels to make up for gaps that may be created.The one downside to an aftermarket radio is that many are, uh, aesthetically challenged. For around $200 a good-quality unit should come with a full-size USB port for charging your devices and Bluetooth connectivity for calls and media streaming.  Of course, your budget and needs will dictate your pick.EXTRACT AND INSTALLGetting the old radio box out sometimes means pulling trim pieces off first, so use trim-removal tools and be gentle. Spring latches hold the radio in place, and small slots or holes in the face of the radio provide access for a removal tool that may be needed for your specific car. Often a flattened piece of solid wire will do the trick, though. With the latches released, wriggle the radio out. You'll need to detach the antenna coaxial cable and some quick-disconnect wiring before you can set the old box aside.Your car might be fitted with a standard metal mounting frame. If not, as was the case with our Audi A4, slide the kit frame into place and bend out a few of the metal tabs to hold the frame in place. If you have an appropriate adapter harness, plug the factory connectors into the adapter and plug the adapter into the radio. All DIN connectors look the same, but they may have different pinouts, so if you're replacing a previously installed aftermarket radio, the wiring setup may not be an exact match. Before finishing the install, check the radio, make sure the speakers are working properly, and link and test any phones or players you may want to use. If a fuse blows, retrace your steps, since a wire is likely hooked up incorrectly. Once everything works, push the new radio body into the DIN slot until you hear the latches click on both sides, locking it in place. Install faceplate adapters and replace any trim you may have pulled off.

Question 5

Accepted Answer

How to Repair Stripped Spark Plug Threads: Auto ClinicSpark plugs that haven't been changed for a long time can become one with the cylinder head. Fortunately, it's possible to repair damaged threads instead of scrapping the head.Q: Yesterday I was driving home and a spark plug blew right out of the cylinder head. The car was towed to the shop where I'd had a tuneup the day before -- which included changing the spark plugs. The mechanic said he could repair the threads, but my uncle says the cylinder head is ruined and the mechanic should replace it at his expense. The car has about 100,000 miles. Thoughts?A: There are a number of ways to repair stripped threads. In fact, it may be possible to simply chase the old threads with a tap and clean them up. Or, as illustrated, you can insert a Helicoil. There are several types of repair inserts, but we prefer Helicoils. I'd give your mechanic a shot at fixing the threads before I held his feet to the fire. When a spark plug has had a chance to marry a cylinder head for 100,000 miles, it's not uncommon for the aluminum threads to come out of the head with the plug. (I pull and inspect plugs every couple of years and reinstall them with a small dab of antiseize compound, but that's another column.)A proper thread repair should last as long as the life of the car. This type of repair can be used for almost any threaded fastener, by the way. And that includes cast-iron, steel and aluminum parts. Warning: Installing a Helicoil or other threaded insert looks simple -- but it's not. Any readers out there who wish to attempt it might want to practice a couple of times on scrap parts.Start by threading the special Helicoil tap into the remaining threads in the head. This is to ensure the new threads are concentric and parallel with the originals. Continue threading the tap in to cut the new, oversize threads. To avoid getting aluminum chips in the cylinder when retapping the threads, you should coat the tap with grease. The chips will stick to the grease and come back out with the tap. Back out the chip-laden tap, and clean up any remaining chips.I've also filled the cylinder (before tapping the hole) with oil-soaked clothesline to catch any chips -- but that was in a racing engine with a squish band only a few thousandths of an inch deep. Street engines with a more normal compression ratio should be fine if you are careful, and blow the chips out with compressed air. Mostly, you don't want any chips to find their way out the exhaust port and wind up in the catalytic converter.Now you can thread the appropriate-length coil over the installation mandrel. There's a raised flat on the mandrel that will catch on the tang in the coil, allowing you to thread the coil into your new threads. The coil is a little bit bigger than the threads, which will keep it in place when you're finished. The tang will pull the coil into place from the inner end. Once the coil is in place, remove the mandrel.Now, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to break the tang off. It's prescored to break off cleanly and easily. Do NOT drop the tang into the cylinder! A few aluminum chips will not damage your engine, but a 1/2-in.-long piece of sharp stainless steel wire will tattoo the top of your piston and the combustion chamber before it finally gets out past the exhaust valve.

Question 6

Accepted Answer

16 Tools to Get You Started Working on Your Own CarWrenching on your own car can be satisfying and cost-saving, but you'll need these basic tools to get started.Whether you're restoring an old Jeep or you've got brand new Prius, you can eschew the dealer or auto shop for some tasks and start doing your own car maintenance. You'll find working on your own car saves time and money—and if something breaks you'll have the confidence and know-how to fix it.That said, you can't just drag your basic around-the-house toolbox out to the garage. An auto mechanic's tool set differs from woodworking and general DIY tool you may have already accumulated; here are the basics you'll need to get started..1.Socket SetA socket set is arguably the tool you'll need most in order to work on your car. A proper mechanics tool set will include standard and metric sizes and 3/8-inch, 1/4-inch, and even 1/2-inch drivers and sockets. Extensions and thin walled sockets are also useful for certain situations. This DeWalt socket set is full-featured and a great kit for beginners and grease monkeys.2.Pliers and WirecuttersThere are a ton of electrical projects you can take on with a vehicle, such as, installing a stereo head unit, speakers, or wiring new headlights. You'll need pliers of various sizes to achieve this, as well as wire cutters and wire strippers. Craftsman and Milwaukee Tool offer a full-range of hand tools to get the job done.3.Torque WrenchSetting nuts to the proper torque is often over-looked by beginner mechanics. Over torquing a nut can cause the bolt to shear off and also makes it much more difficult to remove when needed. Use a clicker-type torque wrench to ensure you are tightening to the proper specifications. To adjust the torque simply turn the bottom handle and align the top of it to the specified torque which is imprinted on the tool. Tighten until you hear two-clicks and then you're done.Never use a torque wrench to remove lug nuts, instead use an impact wrench or breaker bar—you risk screwing up the settings on your torque wrench otherwise.4.WrenchesA wrench set is an invaluable addition to any mechanical tool box. We like this ratcheting wrench set from Craftsman, which features an open-ended side and a ratcheting box end so there's no need to remove the wrench on each turn.5.ScrewdriversA screwdriver set is as useful around the house as it is in your garage, but you may need to expand out what you already have. Get a complete set that includes a larger flathead which can double as a small prying tool, and the very small screwdrivers delicate enough for electronic work.6.Dead Blow MalletA dead blow mallet is many times the only solution when it comes to removing stuck bolts. A few smacks with this hammer—and maybe a little heat—will loosen almost anything. This mallet is covered in molded poly to prevent marring metal surfaces.7.Work LightWorking into the night is common during the winter, and you need a good work light to prevent losing parts and to spotlight your project. This LED flood light from Milwaukee Tool runs off their M18 battery and can be rotated 240 degrees.8.Latex GlovesLatex gloves are preferable to regular work gloves as they are disposable and you are working with clean gloves every time you start a project. Reusable work gloves get greasy and grimy real fast and there's no easy way to clean them.9.Zip TiesZip ties are great for bundling cables and wires together and away from hot and moving parts. They also keep everything nice and tidy which makes it easier to work on a vehicle, as opposed to staring into a rat's nest. Buy a bundle of zip/nylon ties of various sizes so you've got plenty of options when needed.10.MultimeterA multimeter is necessary to check whether you've got a hot wire, as well as how much juice is running through it. It removes the guessing game and is vital for tracking down those gremlins that seem to infiltrate the electronic systems of many cars. This Klein digital multimeter is easy to use and has a nice large display.

Question 7

Accepted Answer

When your car doesn't start, you most likely have a dead battery and the fastest way to get back on the road is a quick jumpstart. This simple trick takes less than five minutes and only requires a set of jumper cables and another vehicle. If you've never got around to learning the particulars or the ins-and-outs of doing it safely, we've got you covered.JUMPER CABLESAny pair of jumper cables is better than not having any at all. But if you are buying new cables, look for ones that are 4 to 6 gauge in size and at least 20 feet in length. Beefier cables and heavy duty clamps will be more durable and provide a better connection. It's not always possible to place vehicles right next to each other, so having longer cables will ensure the batteries can reach each other.This jumper cable set from Cartman costs less than $20 and comes in a handy bag that can easily fit in your trunk or under a seat.MAKING THE CONNECTIONWhen handling jumper cables, keep the red and black clamps from touching, ensuring your cables aren't mishandled when setting them up. Also try to have one person at each end to make the connection and prevent the clamps from touching. If the clamps do touch when they are hot, you could cause a short in either vehicle and create some dangerous sparks.Start by making sure the running vehicle with a good battery is parked next to the vehicle that is dead. Open the hood of each vehicle and identify where the battery is located. Many times there is a plastic hood covering the battery or the battery posts. You'll need to remove this hood to access the posts. It's best to have the proper tools to do this before you get into a situation like this, so take the time to get familiar with how your battery is setup.Once you have access to the battery posts, determine which one is positive (+) and negative (-). The positive post may have a red cable attached, but it's best to look for a plus or minus sign to determine its polarity.Brush away any dirt or gunk from the posts because you'll need to create as clean and solid connection as you can. First connect one end of the red clamp to the positive post on the dead battery. Then connect the matching end of the red clamp to the positive post on the functioning battery.Next, connect the black or negative clamp to the negative terminal on the good battery. Instead of connecting the remaining negative clamp to the dead battery, find an unpainted engine bolt or piece of the vehicle's frame and secure your clamp to that. This will ensure a safer jump situation.START YOUR ENGINESStart the functioning vehicle first, then try to start the dead vehicle. If the interior lights come on and you hear the engine turn over but it won't start, then you may have another issue. If you hear a clicking sound when you try to start the vehicle, you might have a bad starter.Use a multimeter to test your battery voltage. It varies with vehicle types, but it should read slightly more than 12 volts when the vehicle is turned off. If your battery is in good shape, then it's time to troubleshoot other issues.If your vehicle fires up and your jump was successful, leave it running while you carefully disconnect the cables, making sure the clamps don't touch. Keep your vehicle running until you've reached your destination, which will give it ample time to recharge so you aren't stuck again with a drained battery.

Question 8

Accepted Answer

Gasoline is expensive and you're looking for every way possible to save money at the pump. You already shy away from premium fuel, knowing that your car doesn't require it. You'd like to save a few pennies per gallon more by going to an off-brand gas station. But you can't get rid of the nagging fear: Is the cheap gas going to damage your car's engine?Edmunds.com put this question to experts in several fields, including an automotive engineer at a major carmaker, gasoline manufacturers and two engineers with the American Automobile Association (AAA). It boils down to this: You can stop worrying about cheap gas. You're unlikely to hurt your car by using it.Because of the advances in engine technology, a car's onboard computer is able to adjust for the inevitable variations in fuel, so most drivers won't notice a drop off in performance between different brands of fuel, from the most additive-rich gas sold by the major brands to the bare-bones stuff at your corner quickie mart.Still, spending a few extra pennies per gallon might provide peace of mind to someone who just purchased a new car and wants to keep it as long as possible. People with older cars might not be as concerned about their engine's longevity. They can buy the less expensive gas and still be OK.Steve Mazor, chief automotive engineer with the Automobile Club of Southern California, summed it up this way: "Buy the cheapest gas that is closest to you."Recipes for Performance — at a PriceBut this doesn't mean that all gas is the same, even though it starts out that way. The fuel from different filling stations comes from a common source: the "base gas" from a refinery. Workers there mix additives mandated by the Environmental Protection Agency into the base gas in order to clean a car's engine and reduce emissions. Then, the different gas companies — both off-brand and major brands — put their own additive packages in the gas to further boost both cleaning and performance.A key difference is that the major brands put more additives in their gas and claim to have some secret ingredients. This extra shot of additives provides an additional level of cleaning and protection for your engine.But is this extra helping of additives, which jacks up the price, really necessary? And, if you don't use more expensive, extra-additive gas, how soon will your engine's performance suffer?"It's not like any of the fuels are totally junk," says John Nielsen, director of engineering and repair for the AAA. "If you buy gas from Bob's Bargain Basement gas station because that's all that's available, it won't hurt your car," he says.The real difference is the amount of additives that are in the gas, Nielsen says. More additives essentially afford more protection — but they also cost more.Some automakers and oil companies believe that the amount of government-required additives isn't enough to protect engines. They have created a Top Tier gasoline designation. It means that those gasoline brands sell fuels that provide more and better additives.Nielsen recommends that drivers look in their car's owner's manual to see what the carmaker recommends and, when possible, follow that guideline. People who are still concerned about gasoline quality can ask a specific oil company if it has performed independent testing to substantiate its claims.Selling the Secret Sauce in GasolineThe major oil companies spend millions of dollars convincing buyers that their gas is superior by creating ads that feature smiling cartoon cars, lab-coated nerds and sooty engine valves. Buy Shell's nitrogen-enriched gas, for instance, and you won't get a buildup of "gunk" in your engine, company advertising promises.Is all this just a marketing gimmick?"I am a Ph.D. chemist, a nerdy guy who wears a white coat," says Jim Macias, Shell Oil Company's fuels marketing manager. "We really believe there are differences in fuels. We can see it, feel it and measure it."Macias says the gunk caused by fuels with insufficient additives can foul fuel injectors and even trigger "Check Engine" lights in as few as 10,000 miles.But not everyone is keen to talk about gasoline quality and whether additives really make the difference.Edmunds sought comment from one well-known seller of low-price gas: Arco. Arco also often finds itself targeted as being a lower-quality product. BP, Arco's parent company, did not respond to Edmunds' interview request.The American Petroleum Institute provided background comments about fuel additives and promised to provide an expert for an interview. The API spokesman never called back.Finally, Southwest Research Institute in San Antonio, an independent, nonprofit testing facility, also declined to comment on the question of gasoline quality.The Skeptics and Their TestsThe Auto Club's Mazor was more forthcoming, and has some interesting results from a blind test he did on three samples of gasoline from both major and independent gas stations."We tested emissions, fuel economy and performance and we could not tell the difference," he says.Mazor believes that the driving public has outdated notions about gas. Twenty years ago, only premium fuel had detergents in it. Back then, it was beneficial to occasionally buy a tank of high-test gas to clean the engine. Then, he says, "regulations were very lax and there was little enforcement. But all that has changed."Likewise, Randy Stephens, chief engineer for Toyota's Avalon, isn't wholly convinced by the claims of engine protection afforded by higher-priced gas. He says fuel experts at his company study the effects of different brands of gas on the Toyota engines. Automotive engineers disassemble engines after 10,000 miles of running them on different brands of gas to see if there is a difference."Honestly, in the 10 years I've been in charge of Avalon, I've never seen one come back with any sort of deposit issue," Stephens says.Nevertheless, Stephens admits to being "swayed" by ads that tout cleaning agents. Twice a year he adds a bottle of Chevron U.S.A. Inc.'s Techron — the same additive that's in Chevron gasoline — to the fuel tank of his personal car.

Question 9

Accepted Answer

For some vehicles, you're advised to change the coolant every 30,000 miles. For others, changing the coolant isn't even on the maintenance schedule.For example, Hyundai says the coolant (what many refer to as "antifreeze") in most of its models should be replaced after the first 60,000 miles, then every 30,000 miles after that. The interval is every 30,000 miles on some Mercedes-Benz models, but on others it's 120,000 miles or 12 years. On still other Mercedes, it's 150,000 miles or 15 years.Some manufacturers recommend changing the coolant more often on vehicles subjected to "severe service," such as frequent towing. The schedule for many Chevrolets, though, is to change it at 150,000 miles regardless of how the vehicle is driven.Many service shops, though — including some at dealerships that sell cars with "lifetime" coolant — say you should do it more often than the maintenance schedule recommends, such as every 30,000 or 50,000 miles.Here's why: Most vehicles use long-life engine coolant (usually a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water) that for several years will provide protection against boiling in hot weather and freezing in cold weather, with little or no maintenance. Modern vehicles also have longer intervals between fluid changes of all types partly because environmental regulators have pressured automakers to reduce the amount of waste fluids that have to be disposed of or recycled.Coolant can deteriorate over time and should be tested to see if it's still good, as it can be hard to tell just by appearances. Even if testing shows the cooling and antifreeze protection are still adequate, antifreeze can become more acidic over time and lose its rust-inhibiting properties, causing corrosion.Corrosion can damage the radiator, water pump, thermostat and other parts of the cooling system, so the coolant in a vehicle with more than about 50,000 miles should be tested periodically. That's to look for signs of rust and to make sure it has sufficient cooling and boiling protection, even if the cooling system seems to be working properly. It can be checked with test strips that measure acidity, and with a hydrometer that measures freezing and boiling protection.If the corrosion inhibitors have deteriorated, the coolant should be changed. The cooling system might also need to be flushed to remove contaminants no matter what the maintenance schedule calls for or how many miles are on the odometer. On the other hand, if testing shows the coolant is still doing its job and not allowing corrosion, changing it more often than what the manufacturer recommends could be a waste of money.

Question 10

Accepted Answer

A compression test reveals the condition of your engine's valves, its valve seats, and piston rings and whether these parts are wearing evenly. Healthy engines should have compression over 100 psi per cylinder, with no more than 10 percent variation between the highest and lowest readings. With a compression tester, a few hand tools, and 20 minutes, you can try this yourself.STEP 1 Remove the fuel pump and fuel-injection fuses. Disconnect the main wire to the coil and spark plug wires; remove spark plugs.STEP 2 Start the threaded end of the compression gauge in a spark plug hole by hand.STEP 3 Turn the ignition on, depress the throttle, and crank the engine four revolutions. This should result in a stable reading; if not, crank up to 10 revolutions, but do the same with all cylinders.STEP 4 Mark the pressure reading for each cylinder on the valve cover in chalk, then move to the next cylinder.TIP For a cylinder below 100 psi, pour 1 teaspoon of engine oil into the plug hole and retest. If the reading jumps, the piston rings are worn. If not, think valve problems.

Question 11

Accepted Answer

Over the river and through the woods was more dangerous back when cars had crummy bias-ply tires, rear-wheel drive and ordinary brakes. So, tonight you feel confident driving home through several inches of freshly fallen snow after a sumptuous holiday dinner. Your front-drive car has excellent all-season tires and ABS (antilock braking system)—although the ABS light has been on since you banzai'd the berm at the end of the driveway an hour ago. This may explain the loss of steering control when you're slowing down for a corner. Like this downhill turn, right ... there, as you blow straight past it with the wheels skidding and the steering cranked over hard against the stop.ABS has become pretty much standard equipment on most vehicles. Sensors tell a computer when a wheel stops rotating, which indicates—at least when the vehicle still has forward speed—that the brakes have overpowered the available traction at that particular wheel. The computer then directs a hydraulic valve to release some brake fluid pressure to the wheel to let it rotate again. This process repeats many times per second until the vehicle stops or you lift your foot off the brake pedal. The ABS computer does a power-on self test every time you cycle the ignition. If it finds it's lacking data, or a hydraulic pump or valve isn't responding, it illuminates the ABS warning light on the dash. ABS relies on a properly operating conventional brake system. If the ABS packs up, you should still have normal, unassisted braking, so it's safe to continue your journey.For background information on how anti-lock brakes work, click here.Tip: Use your trusty multimeter to check continuity through wheel speed sensors. This sensor has a value of about 1.5 K ohms.LIGHTS OUTYour ABS light is on. Now what? First, be sure it really is the ABS light and not the light that indicates an issue with your normal service brakes. If you do have a conventional brake issue, like low pedal or grinding noises, this is the wrong Saturday Mechanic for you. Be sure your brakes have adequate lining life, aren't frozen up and are completely free of air. By the way, if you ever need to replace your brake fluid, try as hard as you can to avoid getting air into the ABS controller. It's difficult to bleed, and many require the use of a scan tool to bleed at all. (The scan tool has a function that cycles the pump and valves to move air out of internal passages that can't be bled properly otherwise.)If the light really is the ABS warning, the first thing to try is to cycle the ignition key off and back on. It's like rebooting your computer—and just maybe whatever transient glitch confused the ABS controller has passed and all is well. If the condition repeats, you need to do some poking and prodding..You have two options when your ABS light stays on. The first one is to find a shop with a scan tool that will talk to your ABS controller. The dealer will have one, as will some aftermarket shops. For a modest service fee ($50 to $100), a technician will interrogate your ABS controller and look for a trouble code stored in memory. This code will at least give you some idea of where to look.But if you'd like to tear into it yourself and maybe find something simple, you'll need a service manual specific to your car or truck, and simple shop tools, including a high-impedance multimeter. The service manual is extremely important—if you can't get a paper manual, try subscribing to alldatadiy.com for service data you can download.On some vehicles, you can access diagnostic trouble codes stored in the computer without using a scan tool. Usually this means pulling a connector and shorting two pins with a small jumper. The ABS warning light will blink on and off in a pattern, corresponding to a trouble code or lack thereof. Obviously, you'll need a shop manual to attempt this. Odds are you won't be able to talk the service manager at the dealer into letting you photocopy his manual—but it's worth a try. Much of this data is available online—check popularmechanics.com/autodata for suggestions on where to look for service manuals.Let's say you don't have the trouble code and no information to go on other than an illuminated ABS light. You did check the fuse for the ABS unit, right? This fuse may be in the fuse panel inside the passenger compartment or underhood. Let's not skip the obvious.Fuse okay? Check the service manual for the voltage and resistance values on various pins and sensors. The main harness to the ABS controller is one place you'll be checking, so while it's apart, give it a shot of aerosol contact cleaner. Inspect carefully for any signs of corrosion—remember that the signals traveling down some of these wires are only millivolts and almost any resistance is a major impediment. If you can, check the resistance across the wheel speed sensors.If the ABS controller looks A-Okay, and unplugging and reinserting the main harness didn't help, it's time to eyeball the wheel speed sensors—especially if your ABS issue started right after a trip through that snowbank at the mall or after a high-speed trip down a gravel road. You may have damaged the wiring leading to the ABS sensors or even the tone wheels or sensors themselves. Tone wheel? The ABS controller needs to know how fast each wheel is rotating. Somewhere on each wheel bearing assembly or axle is a toothed wheel, and there's a magnetic pickup positioned immediately next to it. (Exception: Some rwd vehicles use a three-channel system with the tone wheel built into the rear differential.) Because this assembly is out in the open, it's prone to damage from foreign objects.Loosen the lug nuts or bolts, block the opposite wheel and jack up the car. (You pickup truck owners may be able to crawl under and check.) Inspect the wheel speed sensor's wiring harness and the sensor itself. Some sensors are integrated fairly well into the hub and aren't prone to damage. Others are simply bolted to stamped brackets. If the sensor is loose or missing, or the wires are damaged, you've found your problem. Check the air gap between the sensor and the tone wheel if it's adjustable—the shop manual will give you a specific distance the sensor is supposed to be spaced from the tone wheel and directions on how to properly set it. On rare occasions, the tone wheel itself will show damage, such as missing teeth or teeth damaged by road debris. On front-wheel-drive cars, this usually means replacing the stub axle, because the tone wheel is machined directly onto the axle. If the harness to the sensor has a connector in the wheel well, pull it apart and check the sensor for continuity with an ohmmeter. The resistance value can be found in the shop manual. Check for shorts to ground as well. Repair any bad wiring, remembering that there's plenty of mud, snow and salt water flying around in the wheel well.

Question 12

Accepted Answer

The sunroof in my Pontiac Sunfire has beengetting fussy lately. Sometimes it initially won't close but finally does aftera few tries, and it's making some bizarre popping and scraping sounds. Withwinter coming up, I want to get it fixed. Can I do this myself? You'd think sunroofs would be just asreliable as power windows, but turning a sliding panel on its side makes themechanics far more difficult. A sunroof doesn't just slide back and forth; itsmechanism must also tilt the panel up and down to accommodate the sliding andventing motions. So in addition to the electric motors and switches and slidesin windows, sunroofs have plenty of additional partswhich are typically theones that break. Popping and scraping noises are generally not happy sounds forcars to make; in a sunroof they indicate surfaces binding, drive gearsslipping, or, put plainly, that something mechanical isn't working correctly.It'll probably break for good when it's least convenient (and raining). There are two approaches to repairing anailing sunroof: the first is to fix what you've got, the second is to replacethe whole megillah. All the greasy bits of sunroofs live between the roof sheetmetal and the headliner. Before you start pulling the car apart, find a placeto work inside or check the weather forecastbeing caught with a hole in theroof during a downpour wouldn't be fun. The first thing to try is removing theglass panel. If you can, tilt the sunroof panel to the "vent"position, which should give access to the screws holding the panel. Removethem, and with the sunroof glass off, you should gain access to the movingparts for an easy inspection. Look for cracked or stripped gears, a buildup ofdirt and debris, or anything else that looks like a problem. With the glasspanel still off, turn on the car and cycle the roof control through the open,close, and vent positions to identify problems. In your case, it sounds like you might beable to get away with replacing the gear on the motor at the front of thesunroof, but without opening it up, it's impossible to know. If you do find andfix the problem, clean everything, then slather it with lithium or marinegrease for smooth future operation. If you find nothing, don't bother puttingthe sunroof back together because you're just going to end up removing it allanyway. Installing a new sunroof is a big jobyou'll have to take off theinterior trim around the door pillars as well as any overhead handles or domelights, then pull the headliner down, disconnect the sunroof wiring harness,and unbolt the whole mechanism. It's in one big rectangular piece called acassette, which should swap for the new piece without any fight. Be sure to doa function test before putting the interior back together; it may need a littlejiggle for a perfect alignment. To answer your final question, yes, you can dothis repair, but it's complicated enough that it may be worth the cost to havea mechanic do it.

Question 13

Accepted Answer

There are two ways to reduce your chances of breaking down.The first, and most important, is to stick to your manufacturer's advice on servicing. Your handbook will tell you when a service is due and exactly what's needed – just make sure you book your car into the garage promptly.The second is to do your own simple car maintenance checks. Here's our top 10:1. TyresEvery two weeks, check your tyre pressures and the condition of your tyres (including the spare). Look out for cuts or wear and make sure your tread is within legal limits.2. ToolkitIf your car has a spare wheel, then at the very least you need to carry a jack and wheel removing tools (plus a locking wheel nut key if appropriate).3. Engine oilUse your dipstick to check oil levels every couple of weeks, and before any long journey, and top up if needed. Pop your car back to the garage if you're topping up more than usual.4. WaterEvery week, while your engine's cold, check your coolant level is between the MIN and MAX marks. Seasonal tip: before the cold weather sets in, get your anti-freeze checked and topped up, if required.5. Windscreen wipersReplace your windscreen wipers once a year to prevent smearing.6. ScreenwashBy law, your screenwash system must work. Keep it regularly topped up with a good screenwash additive  – one that prevents it from freezing, and clears oily grime.7. WindscreenKeep an eye out for stone damage and, if you spot any chips, get them repaired as soon as possible (they can grow and crack if left alone).If the damage can't be repaired, or it's in a place where it could distract you, your windscreen may need to be replaced.8. LightsCheck all your lights – including indicators, reversing lights, brake lights and fog lights – once a week. Look out for blown bulbs and cracks or dirt on the lenses.9. Power steeringMake sure your garage fills your hydraulic fluid reservoir when they service your car. Then all you have to do, once a month, is check its levels; if necessary, you can top up with a recommended fluid.10. BodyworkGive your car panels an occasional once-over for any damage, or signs of rust. These maintenance checks are all fairly straightforward, but if you'd rather not do them yourself, pop into your local garage.

Question 14

Accepted Answer

Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.1.Open the hood and locate the power steering pump and reservoir. Note: the reservoir may be a separate container / independent of the hydraulic pump.2.Check power steering fluid level.3.Locate the power steering pressure and return hoses.4.Inspect power steering hoses for leaks.5.Place a drain pan under the pressure hose connection at the steering rack or gearbox.6.Using a flare nut wrench, loosen and remove the pressure hose fittings from the steering rack / gearbox and the power steering pump.7.Install the new power steering pressure hose, making sure to route it the same as the old hose. Do not over tighten the fitting threaded connections. Be sure to replace both the steering pressure and return hoses at the same time if both are same age and mileage.8.Fill the power steering reservoir with the manufacturer's recommended power steering fluid.9.Start the engine to circulate the power steering fluid. Stop the engine and refill the reservoir.10.Start the engine and turn the steering wheel from left to right. Check the steering hoses and rest of the power steering system for any leaks.11.Turn off the engine and check the power steering fluid level. Add fluid if necessary. Do not overfill the reservoir / system.12.Road test to verify the repair.

Question 15

Accepted Answer

Diagnosing many car problems is easier with an automotive stethoscope, a tool that lets you hear inside the engine. Here's an introduction to using one to track down trouble.Sound amplifierStart with the sound amplifier attachment to locate the general area where the problem is.Metal probeTouch the scope's metal probe to the non-rotating part of the suspect component. If it's worn, you'll hear an unmistakable metallic sound.If you want to be a real car doctor, you've got to use the right tools. An automotive stethoscope can be the most effective diagnostic tool in your toolbox. It works just like the ones doctors use, allowing you to “hear inside” a mechanical component. The stethoscope we chose comes with two attachments—a metal probe and a sound amplifier (first photo). Use the amplifier to narrow down the source of the noise. Then switch to the metal probe (second photo) to locate the exact source of the problem.

Question 16

Accepted Answer

Avoid an expensive service or tow charge (and the worry of being stranded!) by keeping your car battery working at peak performance. This article will show you how to perform a simple step-by-step 10-minute seasonal battery check-up so you know whether your battery is performing well. This article will also explain how to replace your battery if it's failing, so you're not left stranded out in the middle of nowhere with a car that won't start.Caring for your car batteryThe last thing you need is a car that won't start because the battery is dead. You can avoid that expensive service or tow charge (and the worry of being stranded!) by carrying out a 10-minute seasonal battery check along with a few maintenance tips.In addition to a set of wrenches, you'll only need a post cleaner or side terminal, a hydrometer and a cable puller, all available at auto parts stores. Keep in mind that you can skip the battery service if you make sure the mechanic does it during periodic servicing, but you'll want to keep up with the regular maintenance.Step 1: Clean the cablesClean corrosion from the batteryClean corrosion from the top of the battery first and then clean corrosion from around the battery cables with a post cleaner.First clean the top of the battery and any corrosion from the cables using a tablespoon of baking soda, a cup of water and a nonmetallic brush. Flush with cool water. Now disconnect the cables, starting with the negative one to prevent your wrenches from arcing on a nearby ground. Loosen the battery cable clamp bolts and gently give them a twist. Use a cable puller if they're stuck. Never pry on the battery posts. If you have a side post terminal (not shown), use a 5/16-in. box wrench to loosen the cables. With the cables removed, further clean off the corrosion around the battery terminals and cables with a post cleaner.Step 2: Check the level of the electrolyteAdd water to fill holes, if necessaryIf the battery needs water, use clean, distilled water and don't over fill the cells.Gently pry off the covers of the battery cells. (We discuss what to if you have a no-maintenance sealed battery later in this step.) The water and acid mixture in the battery (electrolyte) should be about 1/2 in. deep or to the bottom of the fill hole. If it needs water, use clean distilled water, being careful not to overfill the cells, and then inspect the battery case for cracks. If you find a crack, replace the battery. If you added water, let the water mix with the electrolyte for a few hours before the next step. (You may need to reconnect the battery to maintain your memory functions.)Step 3: Check the condition and charge of the batteryTest the electrolyte in each cell with a hydrometerTo test the electrolyte in each cell, squeeze the ball on the hydrometer and draw the solution into the tester. Hold the test level, record the reading and squirt the solution back into the cell.Test the electrolyte in each cell. Squeeze the ball and draw the solution into the tester. Carefully hold the tester level and write down the reading. Squirt the solution back into the same cell. The testers are calibrated assuming a battery is at 80 degrees F. Add .04 to each reading for every 10 degrees above 80 and subtract .04 for every 10 degrees below. If you get a cell reading that differs from the others by .05 or more, replace the battery. A fully charged battery should have a reading of 1.265 or higher. If all the readings show fair or low (1.200 is low) but are consistent, recharge the battery. Step 4: To drop in the new battery first remove the cablesDisconnecting negative cable firstDisconnect the negative cable first and then the positiveRemove your battery hold-down clamp. Disconnect the negative cable first, then the positive. Note: Always replace the battery with one that has a higher rating than the original.Step 5: Replace the batteryLifting out old batteryUse the heavy-duty strap to carefully lift out the old batteryTie a heavy-duty strap to the ears on the side of the battery and gently lift it out. Be careful; battery acid is dangerous. Don't drop it. Once the battery is out, clean the battery tray and replace it if it's badly corroded. Batteries are heavy and need solid support!Step 6: Reinstall the clamp and cablesConnecting hold-down clampConnect the hold-down clamp before connecting the cable to the terminalsCarefully lift the new battery into place. Connect the hold-down clamp, then connect the cable to the positive terminal first and the negative last (for negative ground systems). Smear a little petroleum jelly onto the terminal before fastening the cable clamps to the posts. The grease will help slow corrosion. Most batteries are at least 75 percent charged when you buy them and should be ready for you to start your car and drive. Check with your supplier to see if your new battery needs charging before you use it.Battery Storage: Use a Battery MaintainerYou've emptied the gas, sealed the exhaust and prepared the engine for seasonal storage. But before you throw the tarp over your boat or roadster for the long winter sleep, think about how you're going to care for the battery.Batteries lose their charge when they sit idle, and when that happens, you could wind up with a worthless battery in the spring. To keep batteries healthy, they should be charged every six weeks. But leaving a standard battery charger connected for the whole season isn't a good idea—that will overcharge the battery and shorten its life. Instead, invest in a “battery maintainer.”Battery maintainers are designed to be left on for the entire off-season. They monitor battery voltage and automatically adjust the charge to avoid under- and overcharging.Battery charger/maintainers and quick-release terminals are available at most auto parts stores or online.Telltale Signs of a Low or Failing BatteryYour headlights look dim at idle and then brighten when you rev the engine.The starter turns slowly, barely starting the car. But you may have alternator wiring problems that prevent the battery from fully charging. If that's the case, schedule a service appointment. Check your fan belt. If it's loose, frayed, cracked or glazed, have it serviced or replaced.A low battery can also be caused by:Frequent short trips.Too many accessories left on or added.Look for a purchase date chart on the battery (it may be handwritten). The battery case will also have a decal stating its expected life, such as 60 or 84 months. If it's near the end of this expected service life, replace it.

Question 17

Accepted Answer

Power steering works by way of hydraulic pressure. Fire up some hydraulic pressure in something like a backhoe, and moving giant rocks around becomes as easy as pulling a few levers. A forklift uses hydraulic pressure to lift pallets full of concrete blocks high onto this shelf or that. This miracle of hydraulic pressure also makes a great deal of the everyday driving experience easier. Turning the steering wheel from left to right in a car or truck is effortless thanks to power steering by way of hydraulic pressure. Things that work by way of hydraulics have no room for pneumatics. Power steering systems are one of these things. Air can be compressed whereas fluid cannot. Air has no place in a hydraulic power steering system.Checking for air in the systemIf the usual effortless power steering experience has become noisier and more laborious, then there could be some air in there. A sure sign of air in the system is what sounds like a mildly disgruntled cat under the hood. This growling will get louder during power steering-intensive movements such as parallel parking. The first thing to check when the power steering starts moaning and groaning is the fluid level. If topping off the fluid calms down the noise and returns power steering operation to normal, then all is well. If the groaning returns a short time later along with fluid gone missing – then suspect a leak as both the reason for the fluid vanishing act and air entering the system.Bleeding the power steering systemThe usual suspect in power steering fluid leaks is the power steering pressure hose. In the process of fixing where the air gets in, it’s easy to introduce some more. After replacing a power steering pump or pressure hose, it’s always a good plan to flush and bleed the power steering system of air. For most power steering-equipped vehicles, this is a simple process. Turning the steering wheel lock to lock several times will remove any unwanted air in there. In some machines, like the Mitsubishi Starion, the system requires bleeding the power steering beyond the usual back and forth routine.How-to tipsThe following are a few car maintenance tips on bleeding power steering systems from the service manual and the miracle of the Internet.Step 1: First things first. Check the power steering fluid level. Check the fluid hot or cold, depending on what the manual says. Turn the steering wheel a few times and take a reading. Foamy fluid is an indication of air getting into the system.Step 2: Add power steering fluid if the level is low. Check the owner’s or service manual for the type of fluid before adding anything.Step 3: Find the bleed valve and apply some penetrating oil. Push a length of clear vinyl tubing on the end of the bleed valve. Tubing length is better too long than too short. Raising the wheels above the ground with a jack and jack stands can make turning the steering wheel easier.Step 4: Run the tubing into a dedicated catch container to bleed the system of both air and old fluid. Be careful not to run the system out of fluid! Start the engine. Crack open the bleed valve slightly. Turn the steering wheel several times lock to lock. Close the bleed valve. Add fluid. Repeat until the fluid runs air free.Step 5: If the fluid is known to be new and free from crud, then running the return line back into the fluid reservoir is an option that does away with the danger of running the system dry. Fasten the end of the tubing to the reservoir with a rubber band or bailing wire. Start the engine. Crack open the bleed valve slightly. Turn the steering wheel several times lock to lock. Top off the power steering fluid once the air is no longer in there. Turn the steering wheel a few more times and check the fluid level once more before driving.

Question 18

Accepted Answer

Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.1.Secure your vehicle on a level surface, making sure your car will not roll or lean when jacked up.2.Break the lug nuts loose but do not remove. Lift up your vehicle using a floor jack.3.Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.4.Remove the lug nuts. Remove the wheels.5.Remove the brake drum. If necessary, back off the star wheel adjuster.6.Clean the brake assembly using a wet wipe method. This method uses a spray bottle with water and detergent. Do not use compressed air to clean the brakes. Inspect the brake shoes for wear or damage.7.Remove the primary and secondary brake shoe retun springs from the anchor pin and brake shoes.8.Remove the adjuster cable and spring assembly. Remove the star adjusting screw and thread the adjuster all the way in.9.Remove the front brake shoe retainer. Remove the front brake shoe and parking brake link.10.Remove the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe. Remove the rear brake shoe retainer and remove the rear brake shoe.11.Unbolt the brake line from the wheel cylinder.12.Unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate.13.Bolt the new wheel cylinder to backing plate.14.Install brake line into the new wheel cylinder.15.Apply white lithium grease to the backing plate contact points.16.Reinstall the brake shoes in the reverse order of removal. Be careful to keep the brake shoes clean.17.Repeat steps 5 through 16 for the other side.18.Locate the brake bleeder valve on your passenger side rear brake.19.Install a piece of clear plastic tubing over the brake bleeder screw and place the other end into a container Â½ full of clean brake fluid.20.Have someone slowly depress and hold the brake pedal.21.Crack bleeder screw open.22.Tighten or close bleeder screw. Repeat steps 19-21 until no more air bubbles come out.23.Repeat bleeding process right rear.24.Reinstall wheels, lower vehicle on to the ground and verify repairs with a road test.

Question 19

Accepted Answer

Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.1 Park the vehicle on a solid, level surface and chock the front wheels.2 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts a half turn. Using a floor jack, lift up the rear of the vehicle.3 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. Do not rely on the jack alone to hold the vehicle up while working.4 Remove the rear wheels.5 Remove the brake assembly.6 Unbolt and remove the flange.7 Slide the axle shaft out of the axle shaft housing.8 Remove the rear axle bearing from the axle shaft or axle housing.9 Inspect the axle shaft or axle shaft housing for grooves or damage.10 Re-install the axle retainer flange and new axle seal on the axle shaft or housing.11 Install the new rear axle bearing and collar.12 Press the collar and bearing assembly onto the axle shaft.13 Reinstall the axle shaft into the axle shaft housing.14 Spin the axle shaft until the splines match up with the gears in the differential15 Install and tighten the axle shaft retaining flange.16 Reinstall the brake assembly.17 Check rear axle fluid level.18 If the fluid level is low, add fluid.19 Reinstall the wheel.20 Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specifications.21 Road test the vehicle and verify the repair.

Question 20

Accepted Answer

How to Replace Your Car's Halfshaft  Most cars sold in the United States drive the front tires. It makes for inexpensive, easy-to-manufacture, roomy cars that get better gas mileage than the rear-wheel-drive alternative. Getting power from the transmission to the front wheels is a bit of a challenge though. That's what a halfshaft does. The two halfshafts have the simple job of transmitting torque to each of the front wheels. But that job is complicated by the drastic up-and-down motion of those wheels, the near-90-degree difference in lock-to-lock steering angle, and the requirement to attach to a stationary transmission.In spite of this the halfshaft is a robust part with a reliable 100,000-mile life span. Still, like every stressed part, it eventually fails. The rubber boot on the wheel side is usually the culprit. It's easy to diagnose. If your car drives fine in a straight line but you hear a ticking noise from the outside wheel when you crank the steering wheel to lock, that shaft on the outside of the turn needs to be replaced. This may sound complicated, but the repair is actually easy enough to do in the driveway with a few hand tools. Replace the whole halfshaft, and don't attempt to repair the boot—it'll just go bad again. Buy a remanufactured halfshaft at a parts store, then take the old one in after the repair. They'll buy it back as a core and sell it to a recycler, who will rebuild it for resale. In all, the fix will probably cost less than a hundred bucks. Sweat the details though; nobody wants a wheel to fall off.How Rzeppa Joints Fail Constant flexing and heat causes the protective rubber boot to crack first, releasing the grease inside. Watch for a grease-covered inside rim. With the boot breached and the grease gone, dirt gets in, turning these machined parts into a gristmill of destruction.Remove the Axle NutThe axle nut lives in the center of the front wheel behind the hubcap. (If you have alloy wheels, you've still got hubcaps; they're just tiny—about 2 inches in diameter.) Pry the hubcap off with a standard screwdriver. Buy a socket to fit the axle nut at a parts store, usually between 30 and 33 mm. You may need to remove a split pin holding the nut in place. Withthe car on the ground use the socket and a breaker bar to loosen the axle nut [1]. Jack up and secure the car, then remove the wheel.Free Up the SuspensionUnbolting less is more here—free just enough to remove the halfshaft. In some cars you can pull the two bolts from the MacPherson strut , then fold the hub and knuckle down, and that's enough. For a double-wishbone suspension, the lower ball joint will need to be freed. Pull the split pin, loosen the castle nut, and hit the ball-joint mount until the taper bolt breaks free. Put the axle nut on for a few threads and tap the end with a hammerPull Off the Old ShaftWhen loose, pull the Rzeppa joint free of the hub. You may need to twist and turn the hub and joint to make this happen. On the transmission side, use a flat pry bar between the joint and the transmission case [5] to gently pry the joint free. Rotate the halfshaft and pry at different points. Think of it as removing a socket from a ratchet. Some inner joints are bolted in place, so unbolt to remove.Install the New ShaftReplacement shafts are remanufactured old units, so make sure it matches the old shaft. Apply some white lithium grease to the transmission-side mounting surfaces and push the shaft into place. Use only your hands, and be sure it seats completely. If it puts up a fight, pull the shaft out, clean everything thoroughly, and try again. Work the wheel-side shaft into place and be sure it slides into the hub securely. Start the axle nut to hold it in place. Reassemble the disconnected suspension components and torque appropriately, then tighten the axle nut and mount the tire. Lower the car until there's a bit of weight on the tires and then torque the axle nut (see below) down—usually about 150 lb-ft of torque, but check your service manual . Finally, take the car in for an alignment. Things will be out of whack no matter how careful you've been, and a few bucks spent on alignment will make the car safe on the road and save your tires.

Question 21

Accepted Answer

In our travels into automotive repair services and time spent with wrenches, there is often mention of consulting the service or repair manual to help with your car maintenance task. When it comes to a removal and replacement of something fairly straightforward and simple like an air filter or an oil and filter, the procedure is more or less universal. A service or repair manual is probably a good idea when it comes time to tackle a more esoteric task like finessing the SPICA fuel injection system on a 1973 Alfa Romeo Montreal into a steady idle.While there is certainly a large part of the shade tree mechanic set who will generally throw directions to the wind no matter what the task, vehicle-specific instructions can be a good thing when it comes to things like brakes and wheels. Finding the auto service manuals can be half the battle. Locating a service or repair manual is much like finding a car. There are a few different kinds and more than one place to look for them, so read on for a few tips on how to do it.Making the booksThere are more or less two kinds of books when it comes to automobile repair information. The first and most expensive are the factory service manuals. These are the same books used at the dealership to help fix errant connecting rods or chase faulty electronics. Next in line is another kind of service manual. Companies like Haynes and Chiltons use factory service manuals along with cameras and writers to dismantle then reassemble automobiles to produce their own repair books. These are usually geared more toward the occasional mechanic.The dealerThe first and often most expensive option is to step up to the parts counter at the dealership. If the owner's manual in the glove box has the same year on the cover as that calendar on the wall, then forking over a pile of cash may be the only option until some time passes. On the other side of the time machine, the dealer is often the only option if the car has seen a few presidents. Stepping away from the parts counter with a genuine factory service manual is usually a fairly painful financial experience. A used manual will have more greasy fingerprints but can cost a lot less.Brick and mortarCall us crazy, but we cling to the antiquated idea that a bookstore is still a good place to find books. Bookstores that specialize in motorized interests are a good place to find a service manual new or used for that old SIMCA or Fiat 500 Abarth currently stored in several 5-gallon buckets in the backyard. There are even bookstores that specialize solely in automobile repair manuals! Not surprisingly, a number of these booksellers also have online stores to help unite repair manuals and interested car or truck owners.Swap meetThat factory-issue service manual complete with fingerprints from the four people who tried to fix up a '71 Plymouth Fury before you is out there, somewhere. Don't just hit the automotive swaps. Branch out into flea markets and garage sales, and keep your eyes open for a dog-eared copy of the Chevy II twin-book factory service set. Warning! Sometimes a book can garner interest in potential car purchases. A sawbuck plunked down for a seemingly harmless service manual can result in countless thousands of dollars sunk into finding and restoring obscure project cars.Forums, clubs and message boardsOne of the best ways to gather information about a particular make and model of automobile is to join a community that already exists. If you're the proud owner of something worthy of having its own message board, then chances are good that someone truly dedicated (or similarly afflicted) has spent the time to either scan in the pages of the service manual or host a digital version for members. Another great feature of message boards devoted to a particular machine is that someone has likely had the same mechanical problem before and has outlined a way to fix it. Forum classifieds can also be a good place to pick up used manuals.The InternetA quick scan of eBay or similar will reveal hundreds if not thousands of automotive service and repair manuals. Some of these are of the factory service manual variety. Others are of the Haynes or Chiltons sort. Personal and trouble-free experience has landed more than one manual on our own bookshelf. While there are many genuine factory service manuals from eBay and other fine online retailers, there also is a great deal of crummy bootleg CD-ROM-style deals floating around. Beware of the auctions for online auto repair manuals accompanied by a half page full of exclamation points or miracle claims. If it sounds too good to be true, it likely is.

Question 22

Accepted Answer

Before you begin the process of replacing a fuel injector or fuel injection rail, you need to think about safety. Always keep fire safety in mind when you are working with fuel. You also need to be sure you are wearing eye protection. Even if you've released the pressure in the fuel injection system, there could be some fuel flying when you start disconnecting high pressure lines and removing injectors.Starting Out:Be sure to follow the procedure for relieving the fuel system pressure.Very important!Look over your car's injection system. Some systems are easily accessible and others are practically buried. Plan your attack so your job can be organizedIt's a good idea to get a fuel injector puller if you are removing fuel injectors. There are other ways to do it, but you risk damaging expensive fuel injection components.Disconnecting the Fuel RailIf your fuel injection system has a fuel rail to deliver fuel to the fuel injectors, you will ahve to remove this before you are able to remove the injectors. This is an easy job.First, disconnect the main fuel line at the end of the rail. There may be an additional line at the other end, so remove that one, too. The fuel rail is help in place by screws or bolts, depending on your car's setup. Remove these screws or bolts.If your wiring travels over the top of the rail, see the next step to disconnect the wiring first. With everything disconnected from the rail, pull it away from the fuel injectors. Most fuel rails are just pressed onto the injector tops, once you've removed the hold down screws or bolts it should pull away, with a little oomph.Most fuel injector wiring plugs are held securely in place by a springy wire (see pic). To remove this wire, just insert a flat head screwdriver in the space between the spring and the plug and pry it carefully away. It will come out easily. Don't lose it!If your car uses a fuel rail to deliver fuel to the injectors, you removed it in the previous step. If you don't have a fuel rail, you'll need to remove a fuel line from the top of each injector. It's just as easy to remove, just do it carefully.With the fuel delivery out of the way, you're ready to disconnect the fuel injectors. Each injector will have a plug at the top (or on the side near the top) that connects to the wiring harness.Pulling the Fuel InjectorWith all of the other stuff out of the way, you're ready to yank the injector. Unfortunately, many people really do try to yank them out. Remember, your fuel injectors sit right in the middle of the delicate are of the engine, so any piece you break off might fall in, and this equals big pain in your fanny.The safest way to remove a fuel injector is to use a fuel injector puller. There are other ways to remove fuel injectors, but if you aren't careful you could damage some expensive fuel injection components.Besides, the injector puller makes it so easy, just slide it underneath the lip in the injector housing and pop the injector out.Your fuel injector goes into what amounts to a hole in the intake manifold (or your head if you're lucky). When you remove the injector, you leave this hole open. Be very careful to keep anything from falling in. This can be a real chore to fix.In the immortal words of every auto repair tutorial, installation is the reverse of removal! You'll need to lubricate the new injector seals before they go in, and remember to go easy, don't force anything in.

Question 23

Accepted Answer

Safety Tip: Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes. WARNING: The dust created by the brake system is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and do not inhale any of it. Use an approved filtering mask when working on the brakes. Use brake system cleaner only to clean brake parts. Try to use non-asbestos replacement parts whenever possible.1.Park your vehicle on a solid level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.2.Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. If the fluid is full, siphon some of it out with a turkey baster. This will prevent the fluid from overflowing when the piston is pressed back into the caliper.3.Using a breaker bar, loosen - but do not remove - the front wheel lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. Make sure the front wheels are off the ground.4.5.Remove the lug nuts and the front wheels. 6.Wash off the brake assembly to remove the dust using the brake spray cleaner. Catch the runoff using an oil drain pan. Check the brake rotor thickness at this time - replace the rotor if worn below minimum limits or if badly scored. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts or pins. 7.Remove the caliper assembly and support it with wire or length of rope. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose. 8.Remove the brake pads, lift out any anti-squeal shims that may be present.9.Press the caliper piston back into the housing. Use a brake pad spreader or c-clamp. The brake caliper piston must be retracted to allow for the new pads installation.10.If applicable, apply anti-squeal lubricant and install the shims on the new pads. Place the new pads into the caliper or mounting bracket.11.Inspect the brake hardware and caliper pins. Use a suitable, synthetic brake lubricant to properly lubricate the brake pins and guides.12.Install the caliper back onto the brake rotor and torque the caliper bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. Press the brake pedal to move the piston outward and seat the pads against the rotor. 13.Repeat steps 5 through 11 for the other side.14.Install the wheels and torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specification in a star pattern.15.Remove jack stands and lower vehicle to the ground.16.Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. Add fluid of the correct type if necessary. 17.Verify that you have a solid brake pedal. Drive your vehicle up to 25mph and gently apply the brakes until the vehicle stops. Repeat the process several times to break-in the new pads.

Question 24

Accepted Answer

When it snows, most drivers slow down and take extra precautions. But that's not necessarily the case when it rains. Yet driving in any wet weather is considerably more dangerous than driving when the weather is dry. Poor visibility, lower levels of grip and the chance of hitting deep puddles are just some of the problems a driver needs to deal with.The good news is that modern technology has helped make wet driving safer with developments such as more efficient windshield wipers, better windshield defoggers and tires with enhanced wet-traction capabilities. Even with these improved features, keeping the following tips in mind can improve the safety of your wet-weather driving.Being seenThe most important factor in safer wet driving is the ability to see and be seen, a point that’s often forgotten. Being seen by other drivers is easy: Simply turn on your low-beam headlights when it rains, even during the daytime. In some states, this is the law. This simple action will allow other drivers to notice your car from the front (headlights) and the rear (taillights). In a really heavy downpour, when you either have stopped on the shoulder or are moving at less than 10 or 15 mph in the slow lane, you should consider turning on your four-way flashers to alert other drivers that you are there. State laws vary about this practice, so check your local driving codes.Seeing clearlySeeing out of your vehicle requires several important considerations:Your wipers must be new enough to remove water from the windshield without streaking.Your defogger must be powerful enough to keep the windows clear. Most defoggers use the car's air-conditioning system to help with the process. With some cars, you have the ability to turn the A/C on and off separately from the defroster function. If so, turn on the A/C to help dehumidify and defog, even in the winter. Some cars also have an air recirculation switch. If your car does, make sure that it is set on "fresh air" rather than recirculation. All of these steps will help speed up defrosting.Most rear window defoggers use electrical heating wires on the rear glass. It's common on older cars for a few of these "lines" to become broken, usually from someone cleaning the window too vigorously. In most cases, this can be repaired.At night, use your low-beam headlights to avoid excessive glare from the raindrops. Remember: High beams do not help visibility in the rain.Cleaning the inside of the windshield is particularly critical. The inside of your car’s windshield and window glass must be clean and free from any oily films that may cause bad reflections or distortions as you drive. If you use an automated car wash, the spray wax can sometimes build up on the windows, causing the water to stick to the glass and making vision a problem. Clean your windows even after a car wash.Maintaining contactYour tires are the only contact your vehicle has with the road, and their condition is critical to wet-weather traction. If your tires are worn and the tread depth is below 2 millimeters, you may experience hydroplaning, especially at higher speeds or in deep water. One way to test the tread depth is to put a penny headfirst into a tread groove. If President Lincoln's head is inside the tread, you still have usable tread left. If you can see Lincoln's entire head, it's time for new tires. Another way to check tire wear is to look for the wear bars molded into the major tread grooves. If the wear bars are visible, the tires are worn. New tires are obviously ideal for wet conditions, since tires loose their ability to shed water as they wear.Wet-weather driving tipsThe way you drive can obviously have a significant impact on wet-weather safety. Be attentive to the situation around you, including what other drivers are doing and how they are reacting to conditions:Slow down early, before you encounter a problem, and be aware that you have less grip available from your tires for stopping, steering and accelerating. Remember: Even four-wheel drive and anti-lock brakes can't change the laws of physics.Even a new tire can begin to hydroplane on wet surfaces, so watch your speed. If the steering begins to feel light and the car is splashing through deep puddles, gently reduce your throttle to allow the car to slow to a more manageable speed. Don't lift the throttle abruptly or hit the brakes, since this could unsettle the tires’ grip on the wet surface.Never drive your car through deep water on a flooded road. You simply cannot tell how deep the water is. It doesn't take much water to disable your vehicle or even float it off of the road surface. If you have any doubt about water depth, stop and go back the way you came. If you must drive through deep puddles, gently press the brake pedal one or two times afterward to help dry the brakes before you need to use them to stop the car.Use the various speeds on your windshield wipers to help remove the amount of water that is hitting the windshield. This sounds simple, but some people forget that at higher road speeds you need the highest wiper speed.Be aware of the spray coming from passing trucks and oncoming cars. It may blind you temporarily, so anticipate this by turning on or increasing the speed of your wipers and by looking at what’s happening to cars ahead of you.If it begins to rain very lightly after a long dry spell, the water will mix with the oils on the road to produce a very slippery surface. Treat these conditions with great caution since even new tires won't give much grip on this oil-and-water mixture.Turn down the radio and turn off your cellphone. Driving in heavy rain demands much more of your attention than driving on dry roads.If conditions become too intense, pull far off the road in a safe place to wait out the storm. If your car becomes disabled, pull as far off the road as possible, turn on your four-way flashers and call for help. Stay in your car.Preparing your carIf you are serious about driving in wet conditions, there are several things you can do to prepare your car:Make sure your wiper blades are like new and that they still have a sharp wiping edge.Clean your wiper blades by running a damp cloth along their edges from time to time to remove the buildup of oils and debris that the wipers have removed from the windshield.Clean the outside surface of your windshield and window glass. Then clean all of the inside glass. Use a commercial product or mix white vinegar and water to squirt onto the windows. Newspaper makes an excellent polishing rag for automotive glass. Just rub until the streaks are gone and the windows are crystal clear.If your windshield is heavily pitted, it might be time for a replacement. Nothing lets you see better than a new windshield.Make sure that your headlights and taillights are working properly and that their lenses are clean.Make sure your tires have sufficient tread and are inflated to the manufacturer's specifications.Be safeThe biggest factor in safer wet-weather driving is you and your judgment. When visibility drops and the roads become flooded, only you can tell if it is time to pull off and take a break. Sure, it may take you a bit longer to reach your destination, but in the end, the few minutes spent to be safe will be worth it.

Question 25

Accepted Answer

Believe it or not, a key feature of our grand human design has made it into the suspension of almost every automobile on the road today. Like the ball and socket joint that connects your leg bone to your hipbone, so goes the ball and socket joint (or joints) that holds the front suspension of your vehicle together. In the same way that your leg can move up and down, and side to side, the automotive ball joint enables the wheel and suspension to move together in the same manner.ConnectionsThe automotive ball joint connects the control arm to the steering knuckle. While the control arm allows for up and down motion, the steering knuckle turns the wheels when you turn the steering wheel. This is important because steering would not be too effective if the front wheels were not able to travel with varying demands created by even more diverse road surfaces and loads placed upon the suspension itself. Because the ball joint can move in two different directions at once, the suspension can, too.Depending on the type of vehicle and suspension in question, there may possibly be an upper and a lower ball joint. The lower ball joint usually takes the biggest hits and wears out first. Not only does it need to handle the load of the vehicle, but it also absorbs the shocks of potholes and other bone-jarring road hazards. It is for these reasons that ball joints should be lubricated and inspected according to proper service schedule intervals.“Enough cannot be said about torque when dealing with suspensions. A bolt that has been properly torqued is not one that's just ‘tight enough.’ Torque holds the fastener at a tension that allows the fastener to adequately keep things together and flex to a certain extent."Inspecting your front suspension and ball jointsThe time for regularly scheduled lubrication is the best time for front suspension maintenance and ball joint inspection. First look to see that the rubber boots holding the grease inside the ball joint are in good shape. If the boot is torn, or just plain gone, chances are so is the ball joint. If the ball joint is capable of being greased, use only the grease that is recommended for the job. Some ball joints come lubricated for life and are therefore incapable of being greased – the paradox though is that they don't usually live very long.Worn ball joints can be held accountable for clunks and sloppy steering. As the socket and ball wear out together, the tolerances become greater and the ball joint becomes loose. The ball can literally rattle and clunk around in the socket – causing clunking noises. On the other side of the wear equation, the ball joint can bind and cause a tight spot in steering travel. Replacing the ball joints can bring smooth steering back to your old clunker.Determining if the ball joints are good or bad depends largely on which type of suspension and ball joints are used in the vehicle in question. If you're lucky, the ball joints will have wear indicators built right in, in which case, checking them is easy. If not, relieve the load on the suspension by jacking the vehicle up and inspecting each individual ball joint for play. As there are more than a few types of suspension setups out there, the best procedure to follow is the one that's spelled out in your vehicle's service manual. As severe failure of a ball joint can cause a car's suspension to come apart, it is best not to take guesses when dealing with suspension issues.Wear outWhile all automotive ball joints more or less perform the same task, there are many different designs out there. Some are exceedingly simple yet require liberating most of the suspension for replacement. Other types of ball joints are of the press-in variety and require specialized tools for proper installation. Certain ball joints are of the screw-in variety and require not only a giant unique socket but also the strength of Gorilla Monsoon himself to remove and replace.While pictures or illustrations will help a great deal in navigating through the maze of front suspension components, keep in mind that every vehicle is different. It is therefore crucial to acquire a service manual or auto repair manual specific to your vehicle before beginning work on an unfamiliar suspension. Blowing the suspension apart with a pickle fork and figuring it all out later can leave you stuck in a major pickle. Knowing that a special socket or tool needs to be used to remove or install the ball joint before dismantling the entire suspension can save time and money. The good news is that many parts houses now offer specialized suspension tools for rent with deposit and sell service manuals along with parts.Enough cannot be said about torque when dealing with suspensions. A bolt that has been properly torqued is not one that's just "tight enough." Torque holds the fastener at a tension that allows the fastener to adequately keep things together and flex to a certain extent. Too little torque and the fastener can come apart; too much torque and the fastener can shear and fail – not at all a good thing to happen while hurtling down the road. Always use a torque wrench during final suspension assembly. Finally, always leave one side of the vehicle assembled for reference when tackling any suspension issues.How-to tipsThe following are a few car maintenance tips on how to replace ball joints. Please make sure to follow your owner’s service manual recommendations.Step 1: Getting to the ball joint most often requires removal of brake and suspension components. Do not allow brake calipers to hang by the brake lines.Step 2: This vehicle has a MacPherson strut suspension and incorporates only a lower ball joint. Separating the strut will allow access to the ball joint.Step 3: Remove the cotter pin if there is one, then the nut on the ball joint kingpin. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle. These ball joints were trashed.Step 4: Remove the ball joint to control arm fasteners. Some ball joints are pressed into the control arm itself – others are screw-in.Step 5: Removing the entire brake and suspension aside, these ball joints were easy to service.Step 6: Install the replacement ball joint and torque the fasteners to specification.Step 7: Install the knuckle over the kingpin and torque the castle or retaining nut to specification. Do not use impact tools. Step 8: With the new ball joint in place, reassemble the brakes and suspension.

Question 26

Accepted Answer

For many years, the much-ballyhooed invention of the wheel has overshadowed the most likely, near-simultaneous invention of an equally important modern innovation: the axle. Without the axle, the wheel would not do anyone much good. Rocks can roll as well and, while this may be great for music, it's not very useful for transportation purposes.CV jointsWhile the wheel has remained more or less round since its inception, the axle has evolved to spin in all manner of configurations and situations. Insofar as automobiles are concerned, there are more than a few different types of axles. Some are of the short and stubby variety like the spindles upon which nondriven wheels spin. Things get more complicated, however, when the axles have to deliver power to the wheels. If a powered wheel had nothing to do but roll on a perfectly smooth surface, the solution would be simple. A straight axle with no suspension would do the job. As anybody who has recently driven around can attest, roads are everything but perfectly smooth; thus, the axle must be able to deliver power to the wheels and travel with the suspension as it soaks up the bumps.This gets particularly tricky in the case of a front-wheel-drive car, where the wheels are steering the vehicle as well. With all the angles created by the suspension traveling over the bumps and wheels steering to and fro, the axle must be as flexible as a gymnast while spinning like a whirling dervish. The solution was to make axles with constant velocity (CV) joints. Front-wheel, all-wheel and certain rear-wheel-drive vehicles with independent suspensions also use this same type of axle, which employs two CV joints to deliver flexible power to the wheels. Some vehicles even employ CV joint axles in the drivelines.Assessing axle wearA CV joint is a collection of bearings and cages that allows for axle rotation and power delivery on a number of different angles and planes and enables the axle to change length as it travels up and down. All the parts spin around in a protective layer of grease that is held inside the joint by a flexible, rubber boot. Without the boot, the grease would simply spin out of the CV joints. The boot also keeps dirt and grime out. On the CV axle are two CV joints along with one or two sets of splines. One side of the axle gets power from the engine while the other delivers the power to the driven wheel. Presto.Over time the rubber boots of the CV joints can become cracked, torn or otherwise compromised. Once moisture and dirt get into a CV joint axle and grease makes its way out, the CV joint’s days are numbered. Signs of impending failures are a click-click-clicking or metallic crackling noise while turning and accelerating or a clunking upon deceleration. While one can repack, reboot and rebuild CV axles, it makes more sense for the average do-it-yourselfer to procure replacement units and swap out the old axles. If a boot is torn or missing, it is possible to save the joint if caught early enough, but usually the damage has already been done. Replacing or servicing the entire CV joint axle assembly may be the smarter move since replacing a boot may involve removing an axle, which may also involve removing half or all of the vehicle’s brakes and suspension.Replacing CV joint axlesWhile the basic concept of a CV joint axle is the same from vehicle to vehicle, there are a number of different peculiarities that make access to a service manual an important first step before disassembly. Axle pullers and impact wrenches may be required. Pry bars, c-clips and snap rings inside differentials may also be part of the bargain. This knowledge is best gained before getting started, not while 90-weight gear oil is dripping down your sleeve.How-to steps for replacing two CV joint axlesStep 1: This is a rear drive vehicle with two CV joint axles. Start by disconnecting the battery, jacking up the vehicle and allowing some penetrating oil to soak into any retaining bolts.Step 2: In this case, suspension disassembly was not required. Moving brake lines and other obstacles out of the way of wrenches is a good bet before beginning.Step 3: Loosening but not removing the strut top mounts and sway bar end link bushings can provide a bit more suspension travel for easier axle removal.Step 4: Loosen and remove the wheel side axle mounting bolts.Step 5: Separate the axle from the wheel. Do not allow the axle to hang from the transmission or differential. Oil seals could be damaged. Step 6: Gently pull, pry or otherwise liberate the axle from the transmission or differential. Do not bend axle seals. Be careful not to tear the transmission or differential oil seals.Step 7: The axle splines on the left show damage. Note the c-clip on both axles. Step 8: Don't forget to transfer any axle seals, ABS rings or other parts to the replacement axles.Step 9: Guide the replacement CV joint axle into place. Depending on the type of retainer, the axle should click firmly in place.Step 10: Always use the proper torque on the axle bolts. Check axle rotation. Reassemble dismantled components.

Question 27

Accepted Answer

Vehicles' vital fluids normally perform two important functions: lubricating and cleaning. As the fluid circulates through the parts, it gathers the dirt and metal shavings that can accumulate over time. If you're lucky, this debris will settle on the bottom of the pan or housing and not circulate through the system. That’s why some auto shops use machines that perform a transmission fluid flush, ensuring that more of this debris is removed before any new transmission fluid is poured into the vehicle.Nothing prolongs vehicle life more than regular fluid changes. In automatic transmissions/transaxles, the recommended service interval is about every 30,000 miles or 30 months. (Check your owner's manual or service manual for your car's specifics.) The automatic transmission fluid (ATF) should be changed sooner if its dipstick reveals dark or burnt-smelling fluid.DIY transmission fluid and filter changesEven those of us who change our own oil often cringe at the prospect of draining ATF. Because many transmission pans don't have drain plugs, changing the fluid can be a messy proposition – the entire pan must be removed. But even on vehicles that do have drain plugs, the pan still must be removed to change the filter.Changing transmission fluid is one of those messy jobs that someone has to do. Doing the deed yourself will save money, possibly time and fresh ATF can make your gearbox perform young beyond its years. It’s also relatively easy to determine when your ATF may be low. Consider an automatic transmission service if you detect the following signs of low transmission fluid:Transmission slipsTransmission shifts roughlyNoisy transmissionNo drive engagement in forward or reverse gearsHow to change automatic transmission fluid: Step-by-step instructionsIf you can garner some initial patience, learning how to change automatic transmission fluid will only benefit you in the long run. More importantly, you’ll need an automatic transmission filter kit; they normally contain a gasket for the pan in addition to the new transmission filter and its O-ring. Along with some basic shop tools, you’re ready to get started.Step 1: Transmission fluid drains better at operating temperature, so let your car idle for a few minutes first. After turning your ignition off, raise and secure the vehicle. Then, lay down a tarp, some cardboard or a newspaper under at least a two-gallon catch pan. Next, remove the bolts from one side of the transmission pan, being cautious of hot exhaust parts and fluid.Step 2: Gradually loosen the other bolts, which should allow the pan to tilt and begin to drain. Once all bolts are removed, lower the pan and dump the remaining fluid into the catch pan. Gently break the gasket seal with a screwdriver, if necessary.Step 3: Clean the gasket surfaces on both the pan and the transmission housing. Inspect the pan for metal shavings or other signs of internal damage, and then clean it with solvent.Step 4: Remove the old transmission filter and O-ring. The filter contains fluid, so keep the drain pan underneath.Step 5: Install the new transmission filter, making sure that its O-ring seats in the appropriate orifice.Step 6: Attach the new gasket to the pan with oil-soluble grease – not gasket sealer or adhesive.Step 7: Refer to the service manual about using thread sealer on any or all of the transmission pan bolts, then screw in all fasteners finger-tight.Step 8: Torque the pan bolts to spec in a spiral pattern starting at the center. Maximum torque is often about 12 pounds per foot.Step 9: Lower the vehicle and fill the transmission with the recommended amount of fluid.Step 10: Start the vehicle, warm it up, then shut it off and check for leaks. If you don’t detect any leaks, run the vehicle up to operating temperature on level ground, move the shifter through all gears, return to park and check the dipstick while the engine idles.

Question 28

Accepted Answer

Automotive mechanical mishaps can range from a minor inconvenience to a major disaster. Leave the lights on? A dead battery is doable. Just call roadside assistance or walk over to the nearest hyper mega mart. Pick up a new battery and an adjustable wrench. Install the new battery, bring back the old one and you're off. Easy. Forget to put gas in the tank? That's not so bad either. You might even have a laugh about it when you finally get home. These things happen despite even the best efforts at prevention.Car brake problems: Sudden brake lossOf all the mechanical failures that can happen while driving, sudden brake loss is on the top of the “bad things” list. While many failsafe and redundant safety features, such as dual reservoir master cylinders and low brake fluid warning level lights, have been built into braking systems since the olden days of motoring, a sudden loss of hydraulic pressure in a brake system will amount to an almost instantaneous total loss of braking. One thing that will cause this sudden failure to occur is a ruptured or damaged hydraulic brake hose.How do car brakes work: Binding agreementCar brakes work by utilizing hydraulic pressure. A liquid, such as brake fluid, cannot be compressed. Try it. Before you open that plastic bottle of water to slake a powerful thirst, give the bottle and the water inside a good squeeze. After you empty it, thirst slaked, put the cap on and try squeezing it again. See? Air can be compressed; liquid generally cannot. This is why it is important to bleed the brakes any time air is allowed into the system. When you press on the brake pedal, a piston in the master cylinder attempts to compress the brake fluid in the system. Since fluid cannot be compressed, it is pushed through the lines. At the other end of the lines full of brake fluid are more pistons. These pistons live in the calipers and wheel cylinders. The brake fluid pushes on these pistons, which makes them move. On the other side of the pistons are the brake pads or shoes. The caliper or wheel cylinder pistons push out on the brake pads or shoes. The material of the pads or shoes makes contact with the metal brake disc or drum surfaces, and friction causes the vehicle to slow down. While there are volumes of other hydraulic principles at work to give you the Superman-like power in one foot to slow a vehicle weighing thousands of pounds down to a stop, brake fluid is at the heart of the system. Without it the brakes will have no power.Get in lineMost of the line that contains the brake fluid is made of steel, but there needs to be a flexible section that goes from the body of the vehicle to the wheels. This section is referred to as the brake hose, or hydraulic brake hose. As the suspension and wheel moves round and round and up and down, so must the brake hose from the caliper or drum-backing plate to the body. It is vitally important that these flexible brake hoses are regularly inspected and replaced. This is especially true if you do brake work yourself. It's easy to replace the pads or other brake components and neglect the brake hoses. Good enough is never a good call when it comes to brakes. Cracked, dry, corroded or flaking hydraulic brake hoses should immediately be replaced. Another common mistake is to let the calipers hang by the hoses as work is done on the brakes or front end. This can stress the hose where it joins with the steel ends and cause potential rupture problems down the road. The safest approach to working on brakes is to completely inspect everything and make certain all the components of the entire system are working as they should. Hydraulic brake hoses are but one part of the braking system, yet they should never be overlooked.The job Here are step-by-step instructions for replacing the brake line.Ste1: Remove the wheel to gain access to the brake hose.Ste2: Spray a bit of penetrating lubricant where the hose meets the brake caliper or drum and on any rusty clips. Go have lunch.Ste3: Always use a flare nut or "line wrench" when working on brake lines and brake fittings.Ste4: Use the line wrench and a second wrench to loosen and remove fittings.Ste5: Cap off any brake lines to stop leaking brake fluid. Brake fluid will damage paint. Flush painted surfaces immediately with cool water if contact with brake fluid occurs.Ste6: Remove any clips and fasteners holding the hose to struts or body mounts.Ste7: Install a new brake hose with new copper washers if required. Always use a line wrench to tighten brake hose fittings.Ste 8: Replace any lost brake fluid. Bleed the brake system of any air. Remove grease and crud from hoses and the disc surface with a brake parts cleaner. Test brakes before driving.

Question 29

Accepted Answer

It’s happened to us all: the painful sound of something solid – a rock or bits of debris – whacking your windshield. If you’ve had your car for a while and your windshield is immaculate, consider yourself lucky.The windshield of your car ensures your safety while driving, but it is also prone to chips and cracks. So what should you do when it’s on the receiving end of a rock?Repairing a small windshield chipRepairing windshield chips can stop cracks from spreading and avoid the high cost of replacing the windshield.Also, repairing your windshield allows you to keep the original quality glass and original factory seal and is a fraction of the replacement cost. Prices vary from shop to shop, but a chip repair costs around $50 on average.There’s no need for immediate worry if the chip is small; it’s probably repairable without replacing the entire windshield. Generally speaking, if you can cover the entire chip with a quarter, you won’t need to replace your windshield.If the chip can be repaired, it’s best to do the repair as soon as possible.Your first step is to get an estimate from a glass repair shop. Next, call your insurance company to see if the repair is covered under your insurance policy. Typically, if you have full comprehensive insurance on your vehicle, the repair will be covered. However, each company has its own policy, so it’s worth the call to find out.When you take your vehicle to a glass repair shop – or, in many cases, the auto glass company will come to your home or office – the repair worker will “fill” most of the chip. This process is relatively simple, and most chips can be repaired in half an hour or less. It may still leave a visible flaw, but it will be much less noticeable. Moreover, the repair provides a strong bond that prevents further cracks.

Question 30

Accepted Answer

Batteries are a lot like people in winter; they like to stay warm and be fed regularly to keep their internal chemical reactions happy, even if they're getting less exercise. We compensate with multiple holiday feasts and beer. Your car's battery needs its own annual routine.Any car battery stored for a long period of time will suffer self-discharge, even in moderate climates—so southerners with garage queens aren't exempt. Real damage can result when a depleted battery's electrolyte meets freezing temps, cracking the internals and case. Proper battery storage with a charger avoids both problems.BUY THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT.Conveniently, effective battery chargers cost less than buying a new battery every year. (Translation: You have no excuse.) Just don't cheap out and get a "dumb" trickle charger; models that have a float, storage, or maintenance charge mode are preferred. Often called tenders—many of which are made by the Kleenex of the charging world, Battery Tender—they have intelligent circuitry inside to cycle on and off and keep the battery at the right level without overcharging. They're perfect for winter lay up or any kind of long-term vehicle storage.PREPARE THE PATIENT.Before attaching the leads, inspect the battery's terminals and cables, cleaning off any corrosion and replacing worn parts. This is also a good time to apply some dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion. Then it's as easy as slapping on the included alligator clips—red is positive, black is negative. If you're fancy, you can permanently install a quick disconnect. Just be sure the charger is unplugged or off before making the connections.If you can't run the cables without leaving the trunk or hood open, be sure there's no light on as a result. If there is, remove the bulb to reduce the drain and keep it from burning out prematurely.CHARGE AND TEST.When it first starts up, the tender might be in charge mode for up to a couple days but should then switch to its storage mode, usually signified by a light on the tender. If it doesn't, or you have doubts that the charger is doing its job, a multimeter set to voltage can verify the state of charge; just unplug the charger before testing. A typical tender will charge a 12-volt battery to 14.4 volts and let it go no lower than 12.6; any lower than that after the initial charge up and there may be a problem with the battery or the charger.You can remove the battery and bring it inside where it's (presumably) not freezing, but it can still discharge over the season. If you choose to remove the battery and put it on a charger, keep it in the garage, since charging creates hydrogen gas, which is a fire hazard. You can skip the wooden block between battery and concrete floor, though; with modern plastic cases, there's no longer a chance of the damp floor causing discharge.Following this advice will prolong the life of your battery, saving you money and aggravation in the end. There's still no easy solution to winter weight gain, though.

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