Question 1

Accepted Answer

Flat tires, like taxes and death, are simply an inevitable certainty in life. So, rather than thinking about what you'll do if you get a flat tire, start thinking about what you'll do when you get a flat tire. Face it: Sooner or later, you're likely to feel the dreaded pull of an unstable car or hear the flap-flap-flap of dead rubber.There are a few things you can do in basic vehicle maintenance before hitting the road that may minimize your chances of getting a flat tire; however, it's best if you know how to change a flat, just in case. Changing a flat tire can seem daunting at first, but car manufacturers have made the process as easy and straight-forward as possible.More importantly, knowing how to change a tire can also save you money and time. From a car maintenance standpoint, a repair or road service club is only as good and as fast as the next tow truck that happens to pass by, and if you have a meeting or an appointment to get to (flats seem to happen at the worst of times), then having the skills necessary to change a tire can literally make or break your day.It's also a good feeling to know you're capable in a roadside emergency and that you have the knowledge and skills to get your car back on the road again, including the ability to perform basic automotive maintenance. However you decide to look at it, understand that learning how to change a tire ranks on the auto maintenance difficulty scale somewhere near checking the oil level and monitoring your tire pressure -- regardless, it's a good skill to learn, even if you never use it.Keep reading to find out how to change a tire, and some of the reasons behind doing it correctly..Tools Needed to Change a TireChanging a tire is a relatively simple affair and most cars come with the equipment to perform the procedure as part of a basic vehicle-maintenance package. The car's owner's manual should also have instructions on where your tire changing equipment is located and the proper procedures.A basic a tire changing kit typically includes:A jackA lug wrench with a socket on one end and a pry bar on the otherA spare tireAdditional tools, depending on the make, model and year of your vehicle may include:A wheel lockExtension bars for lowering the spare tireAlignment studsJacks come in several varieties -- scissor jacks, floor jacks, bottle jacks and even bumper jacks. A scissor jack is the most common type and uses a mechanical scissor mechanism to lift the car. A bottle jack is more powerful but less compact and uses hydraulic fluid to lift the car.The tire rim is held to the wheel hub by lug nuts screwed on to wheel studs. Before the spare tire can be fitted to the car the old rim and flat tire needs to be removed. Before this is accomplished, the lug nuts must be loosened and this is done with the lug wrench. A lug wrench is essentially a large socket wrench with one socket that matches the size of the lug nuts on your wheels. The length of the handle adds mechanical advantage -- the longer the handle, the more force you can exert on the nut. The pry bar on the other end is used to remove the hub cap and sometimes to pry the rim off the wheel hub if it's stuck on with rust or dirt.Finally, there's the spare tire. Spares are either full-size or temporary (often called "donut" or "space saver") spares. A full-size spare offers more advantages as far as safety is concerned, but it's difficult to store, especially in smaller cars. It also weighs more and is harder to manage onto the wheel hub at ground level. A donut spare is easier to store and easier to manage on to the hub. However, it's generally less safe, usually limiting driving speed to less than 50 miles per hour (80.5 kilometers per hour) and a range of less than 60 miles (96.6 kilometers). Good car maintenance means checking the air pressure in the spare tire on a regular basis, too. It only takes a couple of minutes but may save you hours of aggravation someday.The additional items listed are needed by certain cars rather than all cars. Wheel locks are a specially keyed lug nut socket designed to keep thieves from stealing your wheels. While a good idea, the locks are often lost, misplaced or simply disregarded until necessary -- but by then it's too late. If your car has wheel locks, tape the socket to the jack or to the inside of your glove box so it won't be lost.Some car models store the spare under the car. The spare is lowered to the ground by turning a post that lowers the spare on a wire. This post is turned with an extension bar that's also used to help drag the spare out from under the car. This part of the car is often neglected during routine automotive maintenance. Every so often, and before long trips, make sure the spare will lower and the action on the mechanism is not rusted or corroded.Many European cars use wheel bolts rather than wheel studs. Wheel studs stay on the hub and serve as a mounting surface for the spare. Wheel bolts screw into the hub and come off with the tire. With this type of system, putting the tire back on the car means having to manage the tire with a bolt through a rim hole and being able to wrestle the whole thing into position to screw the bolt in. This system is difficult to deal with even in controlled conditions, let alone on the side of a busy road. Wheel studs are a lot easier to deal with as the studs remain attached to the wheel hub and allow you to hang the tire on them and then replace the lug nuts.Preparing Your Car for a Tire ChangeWhen a tire goes flat on the road, a driver has very little time to find a safe place to pull over and prepare for a change. The ideal surface would be flat, level and solid -- like a parking lot.Part of good vehicle maintenance sometimes isn't just about the tools, but also the know-how. Drivers should train themselves to quickly spot good flat fixing areas by being aware of their surroundings. Finding a good spot is really about knowing what to avoid -- specifically soft ground and hills.The next consideration is parking as far away from traffic as possible. You definitely don't need the added danger of attempting to fix a flat tire while you're close to moving traffic. You risk being hit by an inattentive or reckless driver.The next step, once you've found a good spot, is to turn on the car's emergency flashers or hazard lights. Checking these lights to ensure they work properly should be a routine part of your regular car maintenance.With the flashers on, make sure the car can't roll once it's lifted. Apply the parking brake and shift the transmission into the "Park" position or in reverse gear if the car has a standard transmission. Now get out of the car and chock (block) the wheels. The wheel blocks can range from large roadside stones to specially designed wheel wedges. Anything that stops the car from rolling away will work. Place the blocks in front of the front tires if you're changing a rear tire and behind the rear tires if you're changing a front tire.Hopefully your regular automotive maintenance schedule has given you the opportunity to check the condition of the spare and tools. If not, now's the time to find out just how lucky (or unlucky) you are. Remove the jack and lug wrench from the car, as well as the spare tire.Again, regular auto maintenance would ensure these items are in good working order and condition. If not, well, it's time to call a tow truck. But if your spare tire and tools are ready to go, keep reading to find out what to do next.Removing Your Old TireLifting a corner of a car that weighs a few thousand pounds poses some challenges, but it's definitely possible.The first order of business in vehicle maintenance should always be safety. All passengers should get out and stand at least 10 feet (3 meters) away from the car and any passing traffic -- even if it's bitter cold outside, a torrential downpour or blazingly hot. Never, ever crawl underneath a car that's supported with only a jack. While a jack should do its job, it's not very stable and one bump can send the car crashing to the ground. If a car begins to move while it's on a jack, clear the area and wait for it to fall. Don't even attempt to stop it. Cars can be repaired, people are far more fragile.Your owner's manual should show the proper placement for the jack. On unibody cars this is usually the metal seam that runs along the lower edge of the car on each side between the front and rear tires. This area is sometimes covered by a plastic fascia. However, there are generally openings along the fascia where the seam is uncovered. Placing the jack here will avoid damaging the plastic bodywork when the car is lifted. Cars with frame members typically have specific lift points, too. These are often indicated by a triangle cut into the frame metal, usually just in front of the rear tire and slightly behind the front tire.Raise the jack until it's supporting, but not lifting the car. The jack should be firmly in place against the lift point of the vehicle and on firm, level ground. Make sure that it's positioned properly.Remove the hub cap and loosen the lug nuts by turning them counterclockwise; however, don't take them all the way off yet. Just break the resistance. You can use the lug wrench that came with your car or a standard cross wrench will work, too. Your wrench may have different size openings on different ends. Be sure to place the right size wrench opening on the lug nut. The right size is the one that slips easily over the nut but doesn't slip or rattle.Leaving the wheel and rim on the ground at this point means the force you're exerting against the wheel lug nut goes directly to the nut. If the wheel were raised off the ground then all you would succeed in doing is turning the wheel.Remember, it can take a lot of force to break the lug nuts free. If you can't seem to free them you can use your body weight to push against the wrench handle, or you might even want to stomp on the wrench to help the effort. Just be sure you're turning in the right direction. Some drivers also carry a long pipe that fits over the wrench handle, adding even more mechanical advantage to the driver's efforts.Once all the lug nuts are loose, pump or crank the jack to lift the flat tire off the ground. You need to lift it high enough to remove the flat tire and to put the spare tire on as well. Lift the car slowly while checking to ensure the car is stable.If you notice any instability, lower the jack and fix the problem before fully lifting the car. If you notice the jack lifting at an angle or leaning, lower the jack and move it so that it can lift straight up.With the tire completely off the ground, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and then gently remove the flat tire.Attaching Your New TireOnce the old wheel is off, place it flat on the ground and slide it under the edge of the car, leaving room for you to continue to work, of course. Now if the car falls off the jack the additional height of the wheel will lessen any damage. However, if the jack was placed on a flat, solid base and other precautions were taken, there should be no problems.Now mount the spare tire on the wheel hub. The deep side of the spare should face the inside of the car. Take care to align the rim of the spare tire with the wheel bolts. Then hand tighten the lug nuts. Some lug nuts are open at both ends. If this is the case, the cone-shaped end goes in towards the rim -- the shape helps center and lock the nuts in position. With poor vehicle maintenance, sometimes the bolts may be too rusty to hand-tighten so start them by hand just to make sure they're not cross-threading, and then turn them on with the lug wrench until they're snug but not tight.To ensure the nuts are snug and applying even pressure across the wheel, tighten them in a pattern where one nut is tightened, then move to the opposite nut. For a five-stud hub this equates to a star pattern. For four- and six-stud hubs this means tightened in opposite pairs, then moving the wrench one stud to the left or right and tightening that opposite pair until all the nuts are tight.Because the car is up in the air at this point don't use too much force. The idea is to simply tighten the nuts enough so when the car is lowered the wheel won't pop off under the weight.Remove the old tire from under the car and lower the vehicle until the wheel touches the ground, but isn't yet bearing the full weight. Now fully tighten the nuts in the same pattern you used before. Then lower the car all the way to the ground and remove the jack. Tighten the nuts one more time, as tight as you can make them without straining the wheel studs.Stow your jack and tools in the correct place (remember this is part of good car maintenance) and put the old tire in the trunk or on the back seat. Your first order of business now is to have the flat tire repaired or replaced and mounted by a professional.

Question 2

10 Serious Mistakes in Car Maintenance

Accepted Answer

There are a lot of dangerous, irresponsible and downright ridiculous things you can do to a car while "fixing" it.When a car does what it's supposed to do, it's pretty easy to take it for granted. But things can (and do) go wrong with no notice at all. Sometimes parts fail without any kind of warning -- without a grace period that would let you know something's wrong so that you might have a chance to fix it. But let's face it; most drivers are guilty of ignoring problems with their vehicles at some point or another. And that's the first (potentially) fatal flaw. But it gets even worse when the problem is "fixed" improperly. We've compiled a list of some common car maintenance problems to watch for, whether you service your car yourself or even if you pay a pro to do it for you. And don't worry, it's fine if you choose to outsource your car care -- we won't judge.No.1 Roaming Around with Burned-out LightsIt's relatively simple to replace your car's headlights.Compared to most other car maintenance, it's relatively easy and inexpensive to replace light bulbs. So do it. You should know pretty quickly if your headlights or high beams burn out since you won't be able to see, and the turn signal indicators on your dash should clue you in if something's wrong there. Running lights, taillights and brake lights aren't quite as obvious, so just take a look every now and then.And when they do burn out, pull out your owner's manual and replace them. It's not hard; it's not dangerous. Getting pulled over for a burned-out light is just extra stress you don't need, and getting hit because another driver couldn't see you is just ridiculous. Both of these likely outcomes will be a lot more expensive, too.No.2 Attempting a Jump Start Without Really Knowing HowSo easy, even a dummy can do it.Putting jumper cables in your trunk doesn't mean you automatically know how to jump-start a car, but at least you did it before your battery died, right? But if you don't use jumper cables properly, you can fry your car ... or yourself. Though the procedure is really simple, you should learn how to do it before you actually need to. Not standing on the side of the highway while reading this article on your phone. That's dangerous.Here's the stuff a step-by-step guide might leave out: First, get out of the way of traffic. Common sense (or self-preservation instinct) should tell you not to smoke. Less obvious, but otherwise logical, you should wear eye protection, make sure the two cars are parked so they're close but not touching and ensure no cables or connector ends touch anything other than the correct terminals. Don't keep cranking if it doesn't fire up -- just give it a little more time. And make sure the ignition is switched off in both cars before you start attaching cables. Even the dead one.No.3 Haphazard Electric WorkIf you don't know what you're doing, it's probably best to call a pro for assistance with automotive wiring.You wouldn't tackle a wiring project in your house without turning off the power at the source and then double-checking at the site of the problem, right? (Well, let's hope you wouldn't, anyway.) Same thing with your car. A little laziness might get you zapped.Some automotive pros say that the current in your car isn't strong enough to really hurt you but it's always better to be on the safe side, which means assuming that you could sustain injury . Even if you don't suffer an electrical shock, you could easily start an electrical fire, or possibly overload your car's wiring or other electrical components. So, you should know what you're dealing with ahead of time. Make sure your car is off when it needs to be off (which would be most of the time) and remember to disconnect (and then isolate) the battery's negative cable. And if you drive a hybrid car with a high-voltage battery, avoid touching the battery at all costs. Since hybrids are designed specifically for heavy-duty electrical power, the battery has much more shock potential than an average car and can cause injury on contact.No.4 Assuming Bald Tires will last a bit LongerEven if the tread looks decent, rubber deteriorates over time.It's always tempting to try to squeeze a few more miles out of your rubber, but it's certainly not wise. You need to give your car what it needs to maintain proper contact with the road. Think of all you ask your car to do for you, every single day. Now imagine picking up the kids from school in a snowstorm wearing flip-flops, or taking the dog for a run while wearing stilettos. It's all wrong. Your feet need better equipment to get the job done. So does your car.If you don't know how old your car's tires are (you bought your car secondhand, or you're not a meticulous receipt- or record-keeper) chances are you're probably due for a new set. Even if the tread looks decent, rubber deteriorates over time. The damage might not be easy to see, but miniscule cracks cause loss of structural rigidity, which means the tire can't perform as designed. If the rubber disintegrates where the tread joins the tire, the tread can separate (yup, just like a semi-truck). Not really worth taking the chance, is it?No.5 Sloppy Lube Job During Brake RepairIf axle grease or caliper lube gets on the friction surface of the brake pads or rotors, your car's brakes won't work.Even though brake jobs typically aren't (strictly speaking) all that difficult, a lot of amateur mechanics like to hire a pro for this kind of work. And it's understandable. Screwing up a brake job can have pretty serious consequences, for obvious reasons. Your car's brakes work because of friction. It's not entirely that simple, but that's the basic principle. When you press (or slam) the brakes, hydraulic pressure in the system makes your brake calipers and brake pads squeeze in, and this friction causes your wheels to slow down.That's a lot of friction, and it depends on a lot of moving parts. Moving parts require lube, or else they'll seize. So when you're taking brake components apart and putting them back together, you'll need to use brake-system-specific grease to make sure everything's operating at top-notch capacity. And if you're working with the axles, there's a strong chance you'll be using oily substances in the brake vicinity. Either way, you'll want to be extremely careful with lube application -- it's crucial. It requires the precision of carving a really expensive steak, or giving someone a tattoo. If axle grease or caliper lube gets on the friction surface of the brake pads or rotors, your car's brakes won't work. Not at all.No.6 Forgetting to Torque the Lug NutsA pile of lug nuts at the Charlotte Motor Speedway in Concord, N.C.Even though Popular Mechanics has this handy tutorial that explains how to achieve the proper amount of force for lug nuts, don't let that intimidate you. If you managed to change out a wheel (or rotate all four corners) without dumping the car off the jack, you should be able to handle simple lug nut installation. Just read your owner's manual for the proper specs and use a torque wrench. That's what they're made for.But apparently, plenty of people can't seem to get this right. So, after going through all the effort of moving the wheels around for a tire rotation or replacement, they scurry off with the wheels insufficiently bolted on. Guess what -- they won't be on for long. Note also the very real possibility of over-tightening the lug nuts -- it may be a little less obvious than under-tightening, but it has similar consequences. Instead of a loose wheel simply wobbling until it works its way off, all the tension of driving compounds to further stress out the over-tense lugs. Improper amounts of metal-on-metal friction ensue, and over time, something's gotta give. The lug nut or the wheel stud, being the smallest parts of the equation (and likely damaged by over tightening), may eventually snap-off. Not good.No.7 Forgetting to Replace Drained FluidsIt's a good idea to double-check (or even triple-check) that you replaced whatever fluid you drained out of your car.Fluids have a lot of purpose in a car -- and believe it or not, most of them are equally as important as gasoline. True, without fuel, you're not going anywhere ... but that's probably the worst that'll happen (assuming you're out of harm's way when you actually start to sputter out). Your car's other liquids actually bear a heavy burden, too. Maybe even heavier than the expensive stuff you burn to keep going.You always need oil -- if your engine's moving parts go dry, they'll seize up for good. Same with the transmission fluid. Brake fluid helps maintain proper pressure within the braking system. And your car's coolant (aka antifreeze) keeps things from getting too hot or too cold -- running out of any of these fluids can be disastrous.And everyone's heard horror stories about a minimum-wage tech at the local outpost of the national lube chain who forgot to refill the oil after a change, right? Well, those things happen. It can happen to the so-called pros and it can happen to you, too. So if you're DIY-ing it up in your garage, double- and then triple-check that you replaced whatever liquids you drained. It doesn't hurt to check after your mechanic's done, either. If you screw that up, it won't matter that you're always out of windshield washer fluid.No.8 Forgetting to Tighten the Oil FilterYou should be able to install your oil filter by hand; however, once the filter is hand-tight you'll need the wrench to crank it down the final half-turn.It comes right on the heels of similar advice, but still, we can't emphasize this enough: If your engine isn't circulating the proper amount of oil, it won't be long before you're calling for a tow truck.Mike Allen, of Popular Mechanics, says it's important to have the right size wrench to remove and replace your oil filter -- if the wrench wraps around the canister too loosely, it might feel like you're cranking hard without actually making any progress. If you switch filter types, your old wrench might not work anymore. Make sure you check the fit before you leave the parts counter.You should be able to install your oil filter by hand; however, once the filter is hand-tight you'll need the wrench to crank it down the final half-turn. It's really important to make sure you do that last part. A loose filter will soon send your engine's oil spewing everywhere. In that case, yes, your engine could seize; but it's more likely that a fire under the hood will put an end to your drive before that happens.No. 9 Ignoring Warning LightsIt's pretty easy to get desensitized to those dashboard warning lights.Warning lights are kind of like the little boy who cried wolf -- you know you need an oil change, but that check engine light comes on all the time, right? The sad truth is this: It's pretty easy to get desensitized to those dashboard warning lights. A lot of the time, there's really nothing wrong ... or at least, you think you know what's wrong and you'll get around to it -- eventually. There's nothing wrong with getting to know your car this way. In fact, it's good. But when your car is trying to tell you something, you really should listen, even if you'd really rather not hear what its saying. And that's exactly what warning lights are for. Conundrum!At the very least, you should know what all the warning indicators mean -- if one comes on and it's not familiar to you, look it up in your owner's manual. If it's something you can easily fix yourself (low tire pressure would be a good example), go do it. Sooner is better than later. See? You fixed it! How satisfying! And if a warning light indicates something more complicated is going on, it's a good idea to have your car looked at by a professional. Becoming immune to your car's cries for help might be less expensive in the short run, but definitely not in the long run.No.10 Flouting Safety RecallsIf your car is ever part of a safety recall, the manufacturer (or the dealership) will attempt to contact you by mail.Sometimes safety recalls happen because an automaker finds a problem. Sometimes a recall is ordered by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which keeps detailed records of consumer automotive complaints. The recalls might be major safety concerns -- like exploding tires or self-accelerating gas pedals. Others might seem superficial in comparison -- peeling clear coat on your wheels isn't pretty, but it won't lead to your imminent demise.Major recalls usually make the news. Your car's manufacturer or the dealership will probably try to contact you by mail. You can also look online, or call your dealership -- which is especially useful if you bought a used car because the dealership can run your car's VIN to see if there are any other outstanding recalls on that make and model year. And if you ever have to pay for the dealership to fix a safety issue that isn't already part of a recall, save your paperwork -- if your car is recalled in the future for related issues, you might be eligible for reimbursement. Occasionally, someone else is willing to take responsibility for your car -- don't squander such a rare opportunity.

Question 3

Accepted Answer

If you've ever lost your air conditioning on a hot summer day, then you know what a big difference a little cool air makes. The best way to tell if your air conditioner has a problem is if it can't generate or maintain air temperatures that are 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) below the ambient outside air temperature.The most common cause of a malfunctioning air conditioning unit is a low level of refrigerant. This could be caused buy a leak somewhere in the system. Since modern air conditioning systems are complicated creatures, it's best to have a professional check out the problem.The air conditioning maintenance industry has changed a lot since 1994, when the Federal government outlawed the use of a refrigerant called R-12, known by its brand name Freon. In the past, if your air conditioner wasn't blowing cool air, you'd head down to the service shop, they'd top your car off with a little Freon and you'd be on your way.The problem is that Freon, a chlorofluorocarbon, is extremely destructive to the ozone layer. Most people needed Freon refills because they had leaks. By simply refilling the leaky air conditioning units, millions of pounds of Freon were entering the atmosphere every year.If your car was built before 1994, then you need to have your refrigerant checked out by a licensed professional who knows how to dispose of or recycle the material. In some states, it's illegal to refill a leaky system with R-12. However, even older cars can be easily retrofitted to use the newer, safer type of refrigerant called R-134a.For even more car maintenance and service tips, check out the links on the next page.

Question 4

Accepted Answer

Wintertime is notorious for dead batteries and early morning jumpstarts. But the truth is that hot weather is even tougher on your battery.Summer heat can speed up the chemical reaction inside a battery, causing the battery to be overcharged . This can dramatically shorten the lifespan of your battery. Heat can also damage the battery by evaporating internal battery fluid .The best way to keep your battery running smoothly is to keep it clean. Regularly detach the battery cables and wipe off the terminals. Make sure the battery is strapped down tightly and that all connections are secure.If you suspect that your battery is being overcharged or isn't holding a charge well, take it to a service shop where they can run a quick battery inspection. And if you need to replace the battery, make sure that it's the right battery type for your specific make and model of car.What's our number one car summer maintenance tip? Keep reading to find out.

Question 5

Accepted Answer

Cars are designed to run hot, but there's a limit to how hot they should run. A combustion engine is most efficient at around 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius). But if an engine is allowed to get too hot, moving metal parts can actually start to melt and fuse together, causing a variety of internal problems for your engine -- and, you guessed it, a hefty repair bill.Luckily, all modern cars have an ingenious cooling system that uses a chemical coolant, called antifreeze, and a series of pumps, hoses, thermostats and fans to keep the car at its optimal running temperature. But any problems with this system -- low coolant levels, cracked hoses, loose or broken belts, a leak in the radiator or even a loose or missing radiator cap can cause your car to overheat and break down.The summertime is tough on cooling systems. Sitting in traffic on a hot day is one of the quickest ways to overheat your car. This is because there's no air flowing across the engine to help keep it cool. A well-tuned cooling system can take long idles in hot weather, but if you have low coolant levels or a busted fan belt, your engine temperature is going to go up -- and fast.Check under the hood and make sure that your coolant levels are fine. The general rule is to flush your radiator and add new coolant at least every two years. Flushing the radiator is done with a special chemical that cleans debris and build-up on the inside of the radiator. For summer driving, coolant should be added as a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water. You can even buy premixed coolant so you don't have to bother with the measurements.If you see a small puddle of coolant under your car when it's been parked for a while, then you have a coolant leak. Take it to the service station as soon as you can to get your system checked out.On the next page, we'll talk about something shocking -- your car's battery.

Question 6

Accepted Answer

Your brakes are the single most important safety feature on your car. Don't put yourself or your family at risk this summer by riding around on worn down or faulty brakes. Brakes need to be replaced when the lining on your brake pad or brake shoe is worn down past the minimum thickness specified by the car manufacturer or state law. You can have your brake linings checked at any normal service shop or at a brake specialist.Here are some signs that your brakes need to be checked:Your brake pedal becomes very soft and mushyYour brake pedal is very hard and resistantYour brake pedal rests too low or too highIndication or warning lights on the dashboardLoud and constant scraping and grinding sounds coming from the brakesInterestingly, squealing brakes are not necessarily a sign of a problem. Brakes squeal and squeak for a wide variety of reasons, including moisture on the brake pads, discs, shoes and drums. You should only become concerned if the squealing becomes a scraping or grinding noise. This is a sign of metal-to-metal contact, which can permanently damage brake parts.If you notice a brake problem, it pays to have it inspected or repaired as soon as possible. The cost of a brake repair can increase dramatically if even minor problems aren't fixed in a timely manner.Your car won't run if the engine overheats. Find out how to keep it cool on the next page.

Question 7

Accepted Answer

The summertime is notorious for sudden, violent thunderstorms. When buckets of water are beating against your windshield, you need wipers that really work. Even more so at night, when a rain storm can decrease visibility to 15 or 20 feet in front of your vehicle.Winter can be tough on windshield wipers. Ice, snow, salt and extreme temperatures make cracks and tears in the rubber that lower the effectiveness of the wipers. If your wipers are leaving visible streaks or take several passes to clear away light rain, they need to be replaced.When replacing a wiper blade, it's better to replace the whole blade, not just the rubber part . Go to an auto parts store and they'll be able to give you the right blades for your make, model and year. If you've never replaced wiper blades before, it can be a little tricky. Just take your time, read the instructions carefully and everything should work out. It's also a good idea to observe the way your original wiper blades were attached. This may prove more valuable than anything printed on the new wiper blade box.Don't stop now. Learn about your brakes on the next page.

Question 8

Accepted Answer

Over the winter, your car's air filter can get clogged with salt and other thick debris. A clogged air filter can really lower your fuel efficiency. Replacing a dirty or clogged air filter can improve gas mileage by as much as 10 percent.But how do you know when to change your air filter? The recommended interval is every 12,000 miles (19,312 kilometers), but that can be affected by the particular road and air conditions in which you drive. If you do a lot of driving on dirt or gravel roads, then your air filter is going to clog up much faster than an air filter in a vehicle that's used strictly for highway driving. The only real way to know if you need to replace your air filter is take it out and give it a quick inspection.Interestingly, a slightly dirty air filter works better than a totally clean one. This is because the debris in the filter becomes part of the filtering process, trapping smaller particles that might have otherwise slipped past.There's no real science to knowing when it's time to replace the filter. If it's really filthy, then it obviously needs to be changed. Otherwise, go with your gut. If you're preparing for a long summer of hard driving, then you might as well replace it. Air filters are relatively inexpensive.Are you ready to drive in summer showers? Find out on the next page.

Question 9

Accepted Answer

The key to summer driving is keeping the engine cool. We're going to talk about the radiator and coolant soon, but first you need to check the hoses and belts. The hoses connected to the radiator help pump coolant to and from the engine block, and the belts run the fan that helps cool the system further. If the hoses crack or the belts snap, the radiator will quickly overheat, leaving you stranded.Check hoses for cracks, leaks and loose connections. Hoses should be firm, never soft and malleable. Hoses suffer from a slow deterioration process called electrochemical degradation (ECD) that eats away at rubber hose material from the inside . The most vulnerable parts of the hose are those nearest to clamps where the hose connects to the radiator or the engine.Belts can also be visually checked for cracks and damage. Take note if the belt looks excessively slick or smooth. Remove the belt to make sure that the material hasn't started separating into different layers. Experts say the risk of belt failure rises dramatically after 36,000 miles (57,936 kilometers) .Do you really need to replace your air filter every year? Keep reading to find out.

Question 10

Accepted Answer

If you loyally followed our Top 10 Car Winterizing Tips, then there are several things you need to do to "un-winterize" your car for the summer weather. First of all, get rid of those snow tires. Snow tires are heavy and will lower your fuel economy.If you haven't driven your car very much during the winter, or if you've had it in storage, then you need to check all of the fluid levels -- coolant, transmission, differential, power steering and brake fluid -- to make sure there weren't any leaks. You'll also want to change the oil, since oil gets thick and collects condensation if it sits in the engine all winter. If you haven't used your battery in a while, you might need a recharge or a replacement.It's also important to really clean the undercarriage of the car after a long winter, especially if you live in a snowy climate. The salt that's used to melt snow and ice on roads can get caked on the underside of your car and begin to eat away at the metal. Lots of caked-on gunk will also make your engine and transmission run hotter, because heat has a harder time escaping through the bottom of the car.You can clean the undercarriage yourself using a plain water hose or high-pressure cleaning system. Many professional car washes and detailing services can also perform a high-pressure steam clean for really nasty build-up.On the next page, we'll look at some other parts of your engine you might've overlooked -- hoses and belts.

Question 11

Accepted Answer

Oil is the lifeblood of your car. It keeps hardworking engine parts running clean, smooth and cool. Most owner's manuals suggest that you change your oil and oil filter every 7,500 miles (12,070 kilometers). Oil change specialists suggest every 3,000 miles (4,828 kilometers) or three months. The fact is, most of us do a lot of heavy driving during the summer when an engine is more likely to overheat. So at least check your oil before you head out on that road trip with the family.To check your oil, let your car run for a few minutes, then park it on a level surface and shut off the engine. Open the hood and locate the oil dipstick. You're looking for two things here: the level of oil and how the oil looks. If you're low on oil, you can either add another quart or simply change the oil completely. The oil should look brownish yellow and clean on the stick. If the oil is a dark color or there's a lot of dirt and grime in it, then you definitely need an oil change and oil filter replacement.Wait, didn't you do a lot of these things when you got your car ready for colder weather? As a matter of fact, yes. On the next page, we'll look at some winter maintenance you should undo for summer.RECYCLE THAT OIL!If you change your own oil and oil filter, don't just throw the old oil and used filter in the garbage or dump the oil down the sewer drain. It can pollute local streams or end up in the groundwater. Place the oil in a recyclable plastic container like an empty two-liter soda bottle. Place the oil filter over a plastic pan or tray and let it drain for 12 hours. Add that oil to the two-liter bottle, put the used filter in a plastic bag and take everything to your nearest designated recycling center. Many oil change places and auto parts stores accept used oil and filters.

Question 12

Accepted Answer

Top 10 Car Summer Maintenance TipsStart the CountdownSummertime is travel time. Even with gasoline prices at an all-time high, Americans can't resist the lure of sunny skies and the open road. According to a survey by AAA­, 31.7 million Americans planned to travel by car over Memorial Day weekend 2008, despite gas prices that are an average of $.60 more per gallon over the previous year Before hitting the road this summer, you can take several simple precautions to keep your family safe and save money at the pump. Extreme heat and long drives can be tough on cars. Cracked hoses, leaky radiators, underinflated tires and dirty filters can significantly lower your fuel efficiency, or worse, lead to a total breakdown.NO.10 Check Your Tires Tires are one of the most overlooked parts of a car. According the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA), only one out of 10 drivers checks his or her tire pressure correctly, compared with almost seven out of 10 who wash their cars regularly. But the truth is that an under-inflated, over-inflated, worn down or misaligned tire can be extremely dangerous, particularly in hot summer weather.Tire pressure changes with the rising temperatures -- approximately one to two PSI (pounds per square inch) for every 10-degree increase in outside air temperature .Consult your owner's manual or the sidewall of your tire to see what your tire pressure should be and check it with a hand pressure gauge or just let the guys at the service shop do it for you.An under-inflated tire bulges outward and puts undo pressure on the sidewalls of the tire. With enough heat and pressure, that tire eventually will blow. An over-inflated tire, on the other hand, makes less contact with the road and can lead to hydroplaning in wet conditions.Use the penny trick to see if you still have enough tread on your tires. Stick a penny in the tread, and if Lincoln's head disappears, you're good. Your local service shop or specialty tire store can also check your tires for proper alignment and balance.And don't forget about your spare! There's no point in having a spare tire if your spare is in worse condition than the rest. Make sure the spare is properly inflated and has ample tread depth.Maybe by now the summer heat is making you thirsty. Your car could use a drink, too. Find out more on the next page.

Question 13

Accepted Answer

Many people buy tool from supermarket or retailers,and many tool will be broken when you use them first time?everybody know the tool quality is bad.But how to know the quality before buy them? FollowingNO.1  Material A good material is very important in a tool. SAE A325, SAE 1045，SAE 5140  are main main material in market.But only minority can check it.NO.2  Production processDropped Forging, Casting,Cold upsetting are usual process.The Cold upsetting are usually used in sockets.Different production process will produce different weight.everybody only check weight,will know the quality.Dropped Forging is weight than Casting.NO.3  HardnessIf the tool after heat treatment,the tool's hardness will be high,and max loading is high too. NO.4  Surface treatmentGood Brightness,Smooth surface treatment layer of tool is better.NO.5 Size precision

Question 14

Accepted Answer

AISI 1045 Medium Carbon SteelIntroductionAISI 1045 steel is a medium tensile steel supplied in the black hot rolled or normalized condition. It has a tensile strength of 570 - 700 MPa and Brinell hardness ranging between 170 and 210. AISI 1045 steel is characterized by good weldability, good machinability, and high strength and impact properties in either the normalized or hot rolled condition.AISI 1045 steel has a low through-hardening capability with only sections of size around 60 mm being recommended as suitable for tempering and through-hardening. However, it can be efficiently flame or induction hardened in the normalized or hot rolled condition to obtain surface hardnesses in the range of Rc 54 - Rc 60 based on factors such as section size, type of set up, quenching medium used etc.AISI 1045 steel lacks suitable alloying elements and hence does not respond to the nitriding process.Chemical CompositionElementContentCarbon, C0.420 - 0.50 %Iron, Fe98.51 - 98.98 %Manganese, Mn0.60 - 0.90 %Phosphorous, P≤ 0.040 %Sulfur, S≤ 0.050 %Physical PropertiesPhysical PropertiesMetricImperialDensity7.87 g/cc0.284 lb/in3Mechanical PropertiesMechanical PropertiesMetricImperialHardness, Brinell163163Hardness, Knoop (Converted from Brinell hardness)184184Hardness, Rockwell B (Converted from Brinell hardness)8484Hardness, Vickers (Converted from Brinell hardness)170170Tensile Strength, Ultimate565 MPa81900 psiTensile Strength, Yield310 MPa45000 psiElongation at Break (in 50 mm)16.0 %16.0 %Reduction of Area40.0 %40.0 %Modulus of Elasticity (Typical for steel)200 GPa29000 ksiBulk Modulus (Typical for steel)140 GPa20300 ksiPoissons Ratio (Typical For Steel)0.2900.290Shear Modulus (Typical for steel)80 GPa11600 ksiMachiningAISI 1045 steel has good machinability in normalized as well as the hot rolled condition. Based on the recommendations given by the machine manufacturers, operations like tapping, milling, broaching, drilling, turning and sawing etc. can be carried out on AISI 1045 steel using suitable feeds, tool type and speeds.WeldingCertain facts about welding of AISI 1045 steel are:AISI 1045 steel is readily welded when correct procedure is followed.Welding AISI 1045 steel in through-hardened, tempered and flame or induction hardened condition is not recommended.Low hydrogen electrodes are preferred for welding AISI 1045 steel.The workpiece isPre-heated at 200°C–300°C (392°F - 572°F)Maintained at the same temperature during weldingCooled slowly using sand, ashes etc andStress relieved at 550°C - 660°C (1022°F - 1220°F).Heat TreatmentAISI 1045 is subjected to the following processes:ForgingAnnealingNormalizingStress relievingHardeningTemperingForgingHeat to 850°C - 1250°C (1562°F - 2282°F)Hold until the temperature is uniformCool in furnaceAnnealingHeat to 800°C - 850°C (1472°F - 1562°F)Hold until the temperature is uniformCool in furnace.NormalizingHeat to 870°C - 920°C (1598°F-1688°F)Hold until the temperature is uniformSoak for 10 - 15 minutesCool in still airStress RelievingHeat to 550°C - 660°C (1022°F - 1220°F)Hold until the temperature is uniformSoak for 1 hour per 25mm of sectionCool in still airHardeningHeat to 820°C - 850°C (1508°F - 1562°F)Hold until the temperature is uniformSoak for 10 - 15 minutes per 25mm of sectionQuench in water or brineTemperingRe-heat to 400°C - 650°C (752°F - 1202°F ) as requiredHold until the temperature is uniformSoak for 1 hour per 25mm of sectionCool in still airApplicationsAISI 1045 is widely used for all industrial applications requiring more wear resistance and strength. Typical applications of AISI 1045 are as follows:GearsPinsRamsShaftsRollsSocketsAxlesSpindlesWormsBoltsRatchetsLight gearsStudsCrankshaftsGuide rodsConnecting rodsTorsion barsHydraulic clamps                                                                                                                                                                   AISI 5140 Alloy Steel IntroductionAlloy steels comprise a wide range of steels whose compositions are more than the limitations of C, Mo, Cr, Va, Mn, Ni, Si, and B which have been fixed for carbon steels. These steels are more responsive to mechanical and heat treatments than carbon steels.The following datasheet will provide details about AISI 5140 alloy steel.Chemical CompositionThe following table shows the chemical composition of AISI 5140 alloy steel.ElementContent (%)Iron, Fe97.395-98.07Manganese, Mn0.700-0.900Chromium, Cr0.700-0.900Carbon, C0.380-0.430Silicon, Si0.150-0.300Sulfur, S≤ 0.0400Phosphorous, P≤ 0.0350Physical PropertiesThe physical properties of AISI 5140 alloy steel are outlined in the following table.PropertiesMetricImperialDensity7.85 g/cm30.284 lb/in³Mechanical PropertiesThe mechanical properties of annealed AISI 5140 alloy steel are highlighted in the table below.PropertiesMetricImperialTensile strength570 MPa82700 psiYield strength295 MPa42800 psiElastic modulus190-210 GPa27557-30458 ksiBulk modulus (typical for steel)140 GPa20300 ksiShear modulus (typical for steel)80 GPa11600 ksiPoisson’s ratio0.27-0.300.27-0.30Izod Impact41.0 J30.2 ft.lbHardness, Brinell167167Hardness, Knoop (converted from Brinell hardness)188188Hardness, Rockwell B (converted from Brinell hardness)8585Hardness, Vickers (converted from Brinell hardness)175175Machinability (annealed and cold drawn, based on 100 machinability for AISI 1212 steel)6565Thermal PropertiesThe thermal properties of AISI 5140 alloy steel are provided in the table below.PropertiesMetricImperialThermal conductivity44.6 W/mK310 BTU in/hr.ft².°FThermal expansion co-efficient (@20-200°C/68-392°F)12.6 µm/m°C7 µin/in°FOther DesignationsEquivalent materials to AISI 5140 alloy steel are as follows.AFNOR 42 C 2AFNOR 42 C 4DIN 1.7035UNI 40 Cr 4UNI 41 Cr 4 KBJIS SCr 4 HB.S. 2 S 117B.S. 530 A 40B.S. 530 H 40B.S. 530 M 40ASTM A322ASTM A331ASTM A505ASTM A519SAE J404SAE J412SAE J770

Question 15

Accepted Answer

This information is from the Ford Service Manual for a 2002 Ford Explorer, however it can be used for all 2002-2005 Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer and Mercury Mariner vehiclesSteps1.Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from turning.2.Remove the nut and washer and discard the nut. A new nut is recommended and usually comes with the bearing.3.Remove the brake caliper by removing the bolts from the back side of the caliper bracket. Hold the caliper out of the way but do not allow it to hang by the brake hose. Hanging the caliper from the brake hose can cause internal damage to the brake hose. The brake caliper will slide off of the hub once the caliper is removed.Do not damage the boot while separating the toe link from the knuckle.4.Remove the nut and bolt and separate the toe link from the wheel knuckle and discard the nut.Do not damage the boot while separating the ball joint from the knuckle.5.Remove the nut and bolt and separate the upper ball joint from the wheel knuckle and discard the nut.Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV joint components may result.6.Make sure the axle is free from the hub. The axle basically floats inside the hub and you can usually push slightly on the end of the axle to make sure it is disengaged from the hub.7.Remove the nut and bolt and the wheel knuckle, hub and bearing as an assembly.8.Take the entire assembly and a new hub repair kit to a machine shop and let them do the actual press work. Doing this yourself is not recommended unless you have access to a heavy duty press with all of the proper adapters. Improper equipment or experience can cause damage to the new bearing, knuckle assembly, and could also cause bodily harm.9.Install by reversing the removal procedure.

Question 16

Accepted Answer

Anybody who has ever tried installing coil springs on a car with no engine in it knows that putting them in can be a real challenge due to the fact that there isn't enough weight to hold the front of the car down. Here is how you do it easily and safely.#1 PREPARE YOUR WORK AREA You want your control arms mounted to the frame and swinging freely. You want to have all your ball joints in and ready to go along with the nuts that go to them. You want your steering knuckles clean and ready to mount. You want to have a large chain to use as a safety chain. You will also need a coil spring compressor and a large socket wrench to turn it. Don't forget a floor jack and a pry bar.....and of course, those crazy coil springs. My coil spring compressor was purchased from National Parts Depot under part # 988-1 for $35. #2 DROP IN THE COMPRESSOR AND MOUNT THE SPRING A spring compressor usually comes with two ends that have hooks on them. One set of hooks slides freely up and down the long threaded rod and one actually screws onto the threaded rod. You need to remove the hooks that slide freely and set them aside. You want to use the hooks that screw up and down the rod. Drop the threaded rod down through the upper shock hole in the subframe. Make sure you have a couple stout washers underneath the head of the bolt. Screw the threaded hooks onto the end of the rod. If you are using the rubber spring isolators, attach them to the top of the spring now with plastic wire ties. Now mount the spring up into the subframe with the spring compressor going down through the center of the spring. Use the hooks to grab onto the spring at the lowest possible point. Make sure the threaded rod is centered in the spring. Make sure that the bottom end of the spring is rotated to the right spot so that when it's compressed it fits into the little pocket in the lower control arm correctly. Now begin to tighten down the big long bolt just tight enough to hold the spring in. Once the spring is supported, use the safety chain to wrap through the bottom of the spring and around the subframe. This is a safety precaution just in case the spring compressor breaks or some other failure happens. These springs are very dangerous when compressed so do this EVERY time. #3 COMPRESS THE SPRING Once your safety chain is hooked up, you can begin to tighten the big threaded rod and compress the spring up into the subframe. Once you have it compressed enough to swing the control arm up high enough, attach the steering knuckle to the lower control arm ball joint. At this point you should slide the floor jack under the lower control arm and use it to hold the control arm tight against the bottom of the spring. Use a pry bar to pry the bottom of the spring into the spring pocket on the lower control arm. It will pry in very easily and pop right into place. Now use the floor jack to jack up the steering knuckle high enough to attach the upper ball joint. Once the ball joint nuts are tight, you can remove the safety chain. #4 DECOMPRESS SPRING AND ADMIRE WORK Once your ball joints are all attached and your steering knuckle is in and the safety chain is off, you can take out the floor jack and then loosen up the spring compressor to let the full tension of the spring out on the control arms. The spring compressor rod just pulls out the shock hole and the hooks just fall out the bottom hole. Pat yourself on the back....you got your coil springs in without maiming anybody!

Question 17

Accepted Answer

How to Remove a Steering Wheel from a TractorWhen you're restoring or repairing old tractors, you have to contend with years of built up rust and wear and tear. Sometimes just removing the parts to restore or repair the tractor is a job in and of itself. Finding and using the right tools for the job can make all the difference. In this article, you'll learn how to remove a steering wheel from a tractor.STEPS:1.Assemble the items needed. These are listed below under "Things You'll Need". Park the tractor somewhere safe and ensure that it is completely turned off and it is sitting where it cannot move.2.Slacken the centre nut first by backing it off by a few turns but leaving it in place. This will prevent the steering wheel jumping from the shaft if it releases suddenly. Place the puller on the steering wheel. To avoid damaging the centering tip of the puller, place a few washers under the screw. This gives it a firm, well-balanced grip. Once the steering wheel has moved, the retaining centre nut should be removed.3.Insert the ratchet as shown in the image. Apply just the minimum amount of force to the ratchet while the puller is firmly seated. You will note that this begins to break the steering wheel free.4.Remove the wheel. The steering wheel comes off with no damage. Perform any maintenance tasks required and either restore the wheel or replace it.

Question 18

Accepted Answer

Changing rear wheel bearings is a job that doesn't have to be performed by a mechanic. This is a task that anyone with some automotive experience and garage access can accomplish on their own. Follow these steps for how to change rear wheel bearings.Steps:1.Jack the car up so that the rear wheels are off the ground. Prop it up on jack stands and chock the front tires.2.Grip the rear tires at 6 and 12 o'clock, and push them in. If they have little or no resistance, they will most likely need new bearings.3.Remove the transmission tray, engine tray and the plastic cover from the suspension wishbone.4.Remove the rear wheels.5.Ensure that the parking brakes are set and that the car is in Park. A manual transmission should be in gear.6.Remove the axle nut.7.Take the brake pads off of the caliper and unbolt the caliper. Be careful not to strain the brake line.8.Release the parking brake.9.Loosen the screws which mount the rotor and remove it.10.Jack up the suspension housing so that the axle is parallel to the ground.11.Center a 2- or 3-arm puller on the axle shaft and remove the hub.The shaft will pull inward as you tighten the puller. When it has gone as far as it can, the hub will pop off.12.Remove the bearing race from the hub. This will require a hydraulic press.13.Remove the heater supply tube.14.Unbolt the CV joint. The bolts will be found near the transmission.15.Remove the axle.16.Remove the bolts from the housing surrounding the 2 bearing race retainers.17.Crank down on the threaded shaft of the bearing removal tool to extract the bearing.19.Convert the wheel bearing removal tool to the replacement mode and install the bearing.20.Reinstall the bearing race retainers by replacing the bolts in the housing.21.Use the wheel bearing removal and replacement tool to reinsert the hub into the bearing, assuring that it is fully seated.Be careful not to push out the inner bearing race.22.Reinstall the axle assuring that you don't push the hub back out of the bearing.23.Reinsert the bolts which hold the CV joint to the transmission.24.Reinstall the rotor.25.Reset the parking brake.26.Replace the axle nut. Torque it to 339 foot (103.3 m)-pounds (459.684 Newton Meters, or 469.837 Kilogram Force Meters).27.Replace the brake caliper. Torque the bolts to 85 foot (25.9 m)-pounds (115.26 Newton Meters, or 117.56 Kilogram Force Meters).28.Replace the brake shoes.29.Reconnect the heater supply tube.30.Replace the wheel. Torque the bolts to 96 foot (29.3 m)-pounds (130.18 Newton Meters or 132.77 Kilogram Force Meters).31.Replace the transmission cover, suspension cover and engine tray.32.Remove the jack stands and lower the car.

Question 19

Accepted Answer

Sure, you know how to "refill" wiper blades or change over to a winter blade for the season, but how do you remove the entire wiper assembly or arm if it is bent or stripped and no longer moves across the windshield? Whether you have a bolt-on, clip-on or even some other type, keep reading. You'll be done in no time.Steps1.Note where the blade rests on the cowling or windshield with a small mark (bar soap, wax, etc) if the wiper arm is not loose on the drive post, otherwise skip to next step.2.For the bolt on type:Follow the wiper arm away from the wiper blade to it's base or point of attachment. This may require that the hood be opened.Select a socket sized to fit the hex nut, and place on the ratchet (or extension if needed).Position yourself for the best access to the hex nut (from under hood or over the windshield).Set the ratchet to allow it to spin the hex nut in a CCW direction.Place the socket and ratchet fully over the hex nut and hold in place with one hand.Twist the ratchet to spin the hex nut CCW one half to one full turn.After the hex nut is loosened, release your grip of the wiper arm and remove the socket and ratchet from the hex nut.Spin the hex nut completely off by hand and set aside for reuse.Lift the wiper blade up from the windshield with one hand and hold the point of attachment with the other.Gently "rock" the wiper blade back and forth while lifting with both hands and remove from the drive post.3.For the clip on type:Follow the wiper arm away from the wiper blade to it's base or point of attachment. This may require that the hood be opened.Inspect the sides of base closest to the bottom for a flange or lip.Insert the tip of a medium (1/4" or so) size straight blade screwdriver between the base and flange or lip.Place a piece of cardboard or shop rag between the screwdriver and base to protect the finish if desired.Twist or pry the screwdriver so that the space between the flange or lip and the base increases.Enlarge this space to maximum (1/4" - 3/8") with screwdriver, pliers or hand.Lift the wiper blade up from the windshield with one hand and hold the point of attachment with the other.Gently "rock" the wiper blade back and forth while lifting with both hands and remove from the drive post.Increase the space between the flange or lip and base if needed to allow removal of the wiper arm from drive post.4.For types without a clip or bolt:Locate the hinge very close to the wiper arm point of attachment.Locate a hole on each side of the arm near the hinge pin.Lift the wiper arm fully up and off the windshield.Slide a finish nail or other small diameter steel (or other rugged material) pin in one of the holes until it become visible on the other side. You may need to slightly rock the wiper blade closer to / further away from the windshield while attempting to slip the nail into the hole fully.Release the wiper arm - it should remain away from the windshield surface - resting on the finish nail.Rock the wiper arm up and down by grasping with both hands - one hand on the arm and the other pulling at the point of attachment until the arm slides off the post.5.Clean the drive post if needed with a small wire brush. Some posts have ridges designed to "cut" into the soft metal of the wiper arm to maintain the arm orientation. Clogged valleys between the ridges prevents the cutting action, and can cause early failure of the wiper arm. Remove any rust and debris from threaded posts with a wire brush. Apply a drop or two of oil (or other light lubricant) on post threads prior to reinstalling wiper arm.6.Install replacement wiper arms in reverse order of the above procedure. Align the blade with the mark on the windshield in the first step. If the arm was loose on the post, run the wiper at slow speed until it has turned the post or other wiper to the lowest point on the windshield. Place the replacement wiper arm on the post so that the wiper is resting at the low point of the windshield. Seat the wiper arm point of attachment fully on the post by gently tapping on top. The clip on type wiper arm is secured by seating the base fully on the drive post and squeezing or tapping the lip or flange against the base.

Question 20

Accepted Answer

Sure, you know how to "refill" wiper blades or change over to a winter blade for the season, but how do you remove the entire wiper assembly or arm if it is bent or stripped and no longer moves across the windshield? Whether you have a bolt-on, clip-on or even some other type, keep reading. You'll be done in no time.Steps1.Note where the blade rests on the cowling or windshield with a small mark (bar soap, wax, etc) if the wiper arm is not loose on the drive post, otherwise skip to next step.2.For the bolt on type:Follow the wiper arm away from the wiper blade to it's base or point of attachment. This may require that the hood be opened.Select a socket sized to fit the hex nut, and place on the ratchet (or extension if needed).Position yourself for the best access to the hex nut (from under hood or over the windshield).Set the ratchet to allow it to spin the hex nut in a CCW direction.Place the socket and ratchet fully over the hex nut and hold in place with one hand.Twist the ratchet to spin the hex nut CCW one half to one full turn.After the hex nut is loosened, release your grip of the wiper arm and remove the socket and ratchet from the hex nut.Spin the hex nut completely off by hand and set aside for reuse.Lift the wiper blade up from the windshield with one hand and hold the point of attachment with the other.Gently "rock" the wiper blade back and forth while lifting with both hands and remove from the drive post.3.For the clip on type:Follow the wiper arm away from the wiper blade to it's base or point of attachment. This may require that the hood be opened.Inspect the sides of base closest to the bottom for a flange or lip.Insert the tip of a medium (1/4" or so) size straight blade screwdriver between the base and flange or lip.Place a piece of cardboard or shop rag between the screwdriver and base to protect the finish if desired.Twist or pry the screwdriver so that the space between the flange or lip and the base increases.Enlarge this space to maximum (1/4" - 3/8") with screwdriver, pliers or hand.Lift the wiper blade up from the windshield with one hand and hold the point of attachment with the other.Gently "rock" the wiper blade back and forth while lifting with both hands and remove from the drive post.Increase the space between the flange or lip and base if needed to allow removal of the wiper arm from drive post.4.For types without a clip or bolt:Locate the hinge very close to the wiper arm point of attachment.Locate a hole on each side of the arm near the hinge pin.Lift the wiper arm fully up and off the windshield.Slide a finish nail or other small diameter steel (or other rugged material) pin in one of the holes until it become visible on the other side. You may need to slightly rock the wiper blade closer to / further away from the windshield while attempting to slip the nail into the hole fully.Release the wiper arm - it should remain away from the windshield surface - resting on the finish nail.Rock the wiper arm up and down by grasping with both hands - one hand on the arm and the other pulling at the point of attachment until the arm slides off the post.5.Clean the drive post if needed with a small wire brush. Some posts have ridges designed to "cut" into the soft metal of the wiper arm to maintain the arm orientation. Clogged valleys between the ridges prevents the cutting action, and can cause early failure of the wiper arm. Remove any rust and debris from threaded posts with a wire brush. Apply a drop or two of oil (or other light lubricant) on post threads prior to reinstalling wiper arm.6.Install replacement wiper arms in reverse order of the above procedure. Align the blade with the mark on the windshield in the first step. If the arm was loose on the post, run the wiper at slow speed until it has turned the post or other wiper to the lowest point on the windshield. Place the replacement wiper arm on the post so that the wiper is resting at the low point of the windshield. Seat the wiper arm point of attachment fully on the post by gently tapping on top. The clip on type wiper arm is secured by seating the base fully on the drive post and squeezing or tapping the lip or flange against the base.

Question 21

Accepted Answer

Everyone has been driving in the snow and had slush and ice build up on their windshield wiper blade. Normally this is a quick easy fix by reaching out the window, grabbing the wiper and knocking the ice off against the windshield. However occasionally doing this can cause the wiper retaining nut to come loose and make the drivers side wiper not usable.Part 1 of 2: Tightening the Retaining Nut1.Turn the windshield wiper switch off and allow the blades to drop into the rest position. Turn the vehicle ignition switch off and remove the key.Place a rubber mat, cardboard or some other piece of material in the work area and position it to protect the glass and paint finish in case a tool slips.2.Pry the plastic cap open covering the nut. Verify that the arm position is still correct and using a small flat screwdriver, pry the plastic cap covering the nut at the base of the arm from the recessed nut well. The plastic cap may have a small slot to assist in inserting the screwdriver.3.Tighten the nut. Once removed and having determined that the wiper arm is in the correct location on the drive shaft, select a 3/8" drive socket that fits the nut recessed in the nut well.    Be certain that the socket is an exact fit as some are metric and some are SAE. Place the socket (and short extension if needed onto the ratchet handle and insert the socket over the nut. Gently attempt to tighten the nut.    If the nut is already very tight, stop this process. If it turns easily, continue to tighten until it gets snug and then go about 1/8 of a turn more to secure the nut.If the nut was already very tight, you will need to loosen the retaining nut and remove the wiper arm for inspection. If you discover that the wiper drive shaft hole in the wiper arm has a reamed out appearance, it will be necessary to purchase a new wiper arm and install it.4.Test the wipers. Turn the ignition key on, turn the wipers on and test the travel of the arm for proper operation. If the arm slips, you will need to replace it.Part 2 of 2: Replacing the Arm1.Clean the drive shaft splines with an old toothbrush and some WD-40. This will remove trapped metal and dirt from the shaft splines.  Wipe the splines completely dry after cleaning.2.Examine the new arm. See if it has matching splines that will mate with the shaft. If it does, carefully fit the splines together matching them, being sure that the arm is positioned correctly on the windshield.Gently tap the arm down onto the shaft and clean the threads for the retaining nut.3.Install the retaining nut by hand. Ensure that the nut turns freely and is not cross-threaded. If it turns easily, continue to tighten until it gets snug and then go about 1/8 of a turn more to secure the nut.4.Turn the ignition key on, turn the wipers on and test the travel of the arm for proper operation.   If the wiper arms clear each other, move smoothly and do not travel into the molding at the edge of the windshield, turn off the wiper switch and ignition key.5.Using a small plastic mallet or similar tool, tap the plastic cap back down into the nut well, aligning any grooves or tool prying slots to their original positions.

Question 22

Accepted Answer

Changing rear wheel bearings is a job that doesn't have to be performed by a mechanic. This is a task that anyone with some automotive experience and garage access can accomplish on their own. Follow these steps for how to change rear wheel bearings.Steps:1.Jack the car up so that the rear wheels are off the ground. Prop it up on jack stands and chock the front tires.2.Grip the rear tires at 6 and 12 o'clock, and push them in. If they have little or no resistance, they will most likely need new bearings.3.Remove the transmission tray, engine tray and the plastic cover from the suspension wishbone.4.Remove the rear wheels.5.Ensure that the parking brakes are set and that the car is in Park. A manual transmission should be in gear.6.Remove the axle nut.7.Take the brake pads off of the caliper and unbolt the caliper. Be careful not to strain the brake line.8.Release the parking brake.9.Loosen the screws which mount the rotor and remove it.10.Jack up the suspension housing so that the axle is parallel to the ground.11.Center a 2- or 3-arm puller on the axle shaft and remove the hub.The shaft will pull inward as you tighten the puller. When it has gone as far as it can, the hub will pop off.12.Remove the bearing race from the hub. This will require a hydraulic press.13.Remove the heater supply tube.14.Unbolt the CV joint. The bolts will be found near the transmission.15.Remove the axle.16.Remove the bolts from the housing surrounding the 2 bearing race retainers.17.Remove the bolts from the housing surrounding the 2 bearing race retainers.18.Apply high-temp grease lightly to the new bearing.19.Convert the wheel bearing removal tool to the replacement mode and install the bearing.20.Reinstall the bearing race retainers by replacing the bolts in the housing.21.Use the wheel bearing removal and replacement tool to reinsert the hub into the bearing, assuring that it is fully seated.Be careful not to push out the inner bearing race.22.Reinstall the axle assuring that you don't push the hub back out of the bearing.23.Reinsert the bolts which hold the CV joint to the transmission.24.Reinstall the rotor.25.Reset the parking brake.26.Replace the axle nut. Torque it to 339 foot (103.3 m)-pounds (459.684 Newton Meters, or 469.837 Kilogram Force Meters).27.Replace the brake caliper. Torque the bolts to 85 foot (25.9 m)-pounds (115.26 Newton Meters, or 117.56 Kilogram Force Meters).28.Replace the brake shoes.29.Reconnect the heater supply tube.30.Replace the wheel. Torque the bolts to 96 foot (29.3 m)-pounds (130.18 Newton Meters or 132.77 Kilogram Force Meters).31.Replace the transmission cover, suspension cover and engine tray.32.Remove the jack stands and lower the car.

Question 23

Accepted Answer

The ball joints allow the front wheels of a vehicle to move up and down, protecting against road bumps allowing you to pivot while steering. Over time, a car’s ball joints may wear down. If a ball joint starts to loosen, you’ll hear clunking sounds from the front as the joint rattles in the socket. If it tightens up, the steering will bind so you can have a stiff spot as you turn the steering wheel. Fortunately, you can quickly and easily check your ball joints for excessive wear before you experience severe steering or suspension problemsSteps:A ball joint is basically like a ball-and-socket joint in your body, made of a housing, the ball, bearings, and a cover cap, as well as a washer and/or spring. Usually a Belleville washer is used, which is a cone-line spring axle component. Like a ball-and-socket joint, the joint gets worn out from stress after a long life and needs to be checked, especially if you notice a knocking sound during turns. Always defer to the owner's manual for more specific instructions and guidance. Auto manufacturers build different suspension set-ups, so read the manual to determine which type of ball joint your vehicle uses.Parts 1 of 2: Checking Vehicles with Control Arm Suspension.1.  Look for a wear indicator. While the vehicle is still on the ground, look underneath the car, on the bottom of the steering knuckle attached to the wheel. The most common indicator is a grease fitting that doubles as a wear indicator. That fitting, or boss, will stick out of the bottom of the joint’s housing by about half an inch (1.25 centimeters). As it wears the boss will recede into the housing. As long as the boss protrudes out, the joint should be fine. Once the boss is flush with the housing or has receded even further, you’ll need to replace the ball joint.      If you can’t find a wear indicator, or if the indicator doesn’t give you a clear enough sign, raise up the car to inspect the joint more thoroughly.2.  Raise the front end of the car. In some cases, the manufacturer will recommend that you place a jack under the lower control arm of the front wheel, as close to the ball joint as you can, then raise the vehicle until the wheel leaves the ground. If you don't do this, tension will still be on the ball joint when you jack up the car, making it difficult to move and look for play on the joint.Make sure there is no compression in the suspension when you check the ball joint. If you have control arms of unequal lengths, make sure the upper bump stop doesn’t touch the control arm.3.   Rock the wheels and check for play. Make sure your car is jacked securely, preferably on jack stands. For side-to-side play, place a dial indicator inside the wheel rim close to the ball joint. Grab the wheel at either side (3 and 9 o’clock) to push in and pull out the wheel laterally.    For vertical play, place the dial indicator against the steering knuckle stud nut or the ball joint housing, depending on the manufacturer. Grab the wheel at the top and bottom (12 and 6 o’clock) to lift up and pull down.   Read the dial indicator and check against the manufacturer’s specifications. If the movement is beyond specifications, replace the ball joint.   Experienced mechanics will also just check play by the feel, listening closely for any clicking or easy motion that suggests the ball joint is worn out. Alternatively, you could have a helper look closely at the joint itself to see if it appears loose as you move it.Part 2 of 2: Checking Vehicles with Strut Suspension1.   Look for the grease fitting. If your front suspension uses McPherson struts, look for that wear indicator, which is usually a grease fitting. Grasp the fitting and try to wiggle it. If the fitting moves around inside the housing you’ll need to replace the ball joint.2.  Jack up the car on the front cross-member. Many front wheel drive cars with strut suspensions should not be jacked up using the lower control arm, so it's a good idea to consult your owner's manual before attempting to inspect the joint. In general, you're going to want to jack the car up in the directed place as you normally would, on the crossing member of the frame.    If you have McPherson struts, let the strut extend as far out as you can before you try to check the wheels for play.3.   Use a pry bar or another tool to check the up-down play on the ball joint. You typically won't be able to work the ball joint with just your hands, but you can usually use a pry-bar, or even a long screwdriver under the wheel to pry up and use the ground for leverage, checking to see if the ball joint is in need of replacement.4.   Listen. The ball joint assembly in a vehicle with strut suspension should make a slight clicking sound when you move it up and down, and you should be able to hear it easily if it's worn out and not working smoothly as it should.      If you notice significant play when you move the pry bar, you need to change the ball joint.Alternatively, have someone look at the ball joint while you attempt to move it. It'll shudder slightly and look insecure if it needs to be replaced.

Question 24

Accepted Answer

Piston rings keep oil from entering the combustion chamber of a combustion engine. Piston rings wear over time and will begin to allow oil to burn along with fuel. Blue smoke emitting from the tailpipe of your vehicle signifies burning oil and worn piston rings. New piston rings fit snugly against an engine's cylinder walls. Installing tight fitting rings requires a piston ring compressor to keep the rings from catching on the upper lip of the cylinder wall and breaking during installation.Instructions:1.Coat the installed piston rings and the inside of a piston ring compressor with 10W30 motor oil.2Push the latch located on the side of the piston ring compressor away from the tool.3.Spin the piston rings to stagger the ring seams. Slide the ring compressor over the top of the piston. Push the latch towards the side of the compressor.4.Select a socket from a socket set that matches the size of the bolt located on the side of the piston ring compressor. Attach the socket to a 3/8-inch ratchet handle.5.Turn the bolt clockwise until the compressor sits tight against the sides of the piston.6.Slide the piston rod into the combustion cylinder until the compressor sits on top of the engine block.7.Tap on the top of the piston with the wooden handle of a hammer until the piston rests inside of the combustion cylinder and no part of the piston remains in the piston ring compressor.

Question 25

Accepted Answer

A mechanic's stethoscope isvery much like a doctor's stethoscope. Instead of being used to examine apatient's internal noises or breathing, a mechanic's stethoscope is used tolisten to and track noises found within an engine. Typically made out ofchrome-plated steel, with PVC, or polyvinyl chloride, hoses and rubber earpieces, it can come in handy for both the professional mechanic as well as thetinkering hobbyist.                                                      Being able to hear engine partsin need of adjustment or replacement, such as grinding ball bearings or aknocking lifter, can help a mechanic isolate problems and repair a vehicle muchmore efficiently. The interior noises of a motor can be quite difficult to hearusing just the human ear alone. The mechanic's stethoscope has sensitive earpieces that pick up the slightest valve vibration.                                                       Mechanic's stethoscopes can aidin inspecting various car parts, including the transmission, transfer case,valve train, rear axle, and the engine itself. Evenproblems within the dashboard may be located through utilizing this tool. Worngears or a water pump failure that may otherwise be challenging to identify canoften be located quickly using a stethoscope, making troubleshooting a machinea much easier task.                                                     Tracking down hard-to-findleaks is another function of the mechanic's stethoscope. The tool can actuallyhelp a mechanic hear a leak without seeing it, such as in the case of a damaged head gasket. By following the sound ofsteam, gas, water flow, or oil, problems can be easily isolated, allowing themechanic to make a timely diagnosis and commence repairs. In this light, themechanic's stethoscope also proves useful in checking the vacuum and pressureflow of a vehicle — as well as synchronizing multiple carburetors for optimalpower and function. An array of differentspecial ends may be used for various automotive functions. A needle probe, forexample, may be utilized to isolate noises that may be difficult to find, aswell as seek out smaller, confined areas; while a rubber trumpet can amplifythe sound and make it easier to hear. Shorter adapters may be used to inspectbroader vehicle areas.

Question 26

Accepted Answer

Valve springs are under tremendous pressure when installed, making improper removal dangerous. Additionally, theinstallation of valve springs without a valve spring compressor is almost impossible. Therefore, the use of a valve spring compressor is essential to thespeedy and safe installation and removal of valve springs.1.If using a valve spring compressor to remove the valve springs from an already assembled cylinder head, first lay the cylinder head on its side.2.Use the valve spring compressor by placing the U-shaped portion over the valve spring retainer and the screw on the cylinder head to compress the spring.3.While the spring is compressed, remove the value keepers and retainers.4.Slowly release the compressor and remove the valve.5.To use a valve spring compressor to installvalve springs, first place the spring over the valve stem.6.Install the valve retainer over the spring. 7.Use the valve spring compressor in the same manner as was used to remove the spring, but instead compress the spring down the valve stem and install the valve keepers on either side of the valve.8.Once the valve keepers are securely in place,remove the valve spring compressor.

Question 27

Accepted Answer

When performing vehicle maintenance at home, one of the most frustrating things to encounter is an oil filter that will not unscrew from its base. Given the oil filter's often cramped position on the engine,this task is made doubly aggravating by preventing the ability to add torque tothe oil filter. With a few simple tools and some preparation, this task is made much simpler.Classic Oil Filter WrenchThe most common tool for turning oil filters is the classic, or strap-style oil filter wrench. It is a circular device attached to a long handle that can be used clockwise to tighten the filter, and counterclockwise to loosen it. The oil filter wrench uses the principles of applied torque to accomplish the task of turning the oil filter. Though useful in many older vehicles due to their moreopen engine compartments, the classic oil filter wrench, with its rigidlong-handled design, may not prove useful on more modern automobiles where space is limited or the oil filter is positioned in an inconvenient place.Universal Oil Filter WrenchThe universal oil filter wrench is the most convenient method of breaking loose old oil filters. Its design is simple and efficient: a three- orfour-pronged adjustable claw that is fitted over the oil filter, with ahexagonal nut in the center to facilitate turning with a wrench or socket. Thiswrench is very useful in cramped spaces, as it can be paired with several kindsof socket extensions to allow torque to be applied from outside the crampedarea. Another version of this type of wrench consists of a metal sleeve thatfits around the outside of the oil filter.What Not to Do to Remove A Difficult FilterNever attempt to pry a stuck oil filter loose. Using a screwdriver orother inappropriate tool will permanently damage the interior screw threads ofthe engine. Yanking or applying force from any angle will cause these threadsto warp and prevent future oil filters from fitting properly, leading to oilleaks and necessitating extensive repair.Never attempt to remove an oil filter barehanded. Most oil filters comewith a special layer of grip tape along the top, similar in texture to roughsandpaper, which can cause injury to the hands. Always use leather work glovesif attempting to remove the oil filter by hand.Never attempt to change the oil or filter while the engine is hot. Oilchanges should only be performed when the engine is cool. This will prevent anyinjury caused by hot engine oil, and will make the task much easier. Bothrubber and metal expand when heated, so allowing the engine to cool downbeforehand will relieve some of the pressure on the gasket between the oilfilter and the engine.

Question 28

Accepted Answer

Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.1.Park your vehicle on a solid level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.2.Break loose the front wheel lug nuts with a tire iron, but do not remove. Using a floor jack, lift up the front of your vehicle.3.Support the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds or the frame rails are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.4.Remove the wheel lug nuts. Remove the front wheels and set them aside.5.Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.6.Disconnect the sway bar end link from the lower control arm.7.Remove the front shock absorber.8.Connect the coil spring compressor to the coil spring.9.Separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm. Lower the floor jack and remove the coil spring.10.Remove the coil spring compressor tool from the old spring. If necessary, remove the spring insulator (a rubber or plastic mount that sits between the body and spring) from the top of the spring.11.Attach the spring compressor to the new coil spring and compress the spring.12.If applicable, install the spring insulator.13.Insert the coil spring into the spring seats.14.Raise the lower control arm and reattach the lower ball joint. Remove the spring compressor.15.Reinstall the shock absorber and sway bar end link.16.Repeat steps 5 through 15 for the other side. Remove vehicle from jack stands and drive car to seat the coil springs.

Question 29

Accepted Answer

How to Replace Tie Rod EndsReplacing tie rod ends refers to repairing an integral part of a vehicle's steering mechanism. With a few basic tools and a little bit of know-how, this is a procedure that anyone, with a little bit of automotive experience, can perform on their own. Follow these steps for how to replace tie rod ends.Steps:1. Identify the components for each side of the tie rod ends as these are not interchangeable.2.Loosen the front tires slightly before raising the vehicle.3.Raise the front end with a floor jack, stabilize the vehicle with jack stands and chock the rear tires.4.Remove the front wheels.5.Remove the pinch bolts (using a spray lubricant to ease), which hold the tie rod ends to the steering column.6.Remove the split pin and throw it away and detach the bands that hold the dust boot on the inner tie rods.7.Pull off the dust boot using a flathead screwdriver.8.Use a properly sized ratchet wrench to dislodge the nut connecting the tie rod to the wheel and rotate the nut clockwise.9.Use a ball joint separator tool to remove the tie rod end from the main joint of the steering assembly.10.Rotate the steering wheel until the wheels are facing a forward direction.Be sure to shift the boot away from the ball joint to access the inner tie rod. Label the placement of the inner tie rod end in relation to the steering column and ensure the mark is easily visible.11.Use a wrench to detach the inner tie rod end from the steering assembly and remove the dust boot from the tie rod.12.Assemble the tie rod mechanism and slide the dust boot on and attach the bolt.13.Put in the grease fittings, if applicable.14.Reference your label and use a wrench to work the replacement tie rod into place.15.Install the locking ring on the inner tie rod and attach the outer tie rod.16.Assure that the locking nut is tightened properly.17.Install the outer tie rod end at the wheel and ensure the bolt is properly tightened.18.Verify that the locking bolt and the hole for the installation of the split pin are properly aligned and replace the split pin.19.Apply grease to the tie rod end assembly generously and continue until it is visible.20.Clean up the excess grease and replace the wheel.21.Repeat this process to install the tie rod ends on the other side.22.Remove the jack stands, lower the floor jack and have a professional alignment performed.

Question 30

Accepted Answer

Changing rear wheel bearings is a job that doesn't have to be performed by a mechanic. This is a task that anyone with some automotive experience and garage access can accomplish on their own. Follow these steps for how to change rear wheel bearingsSTEPS:No.1   Jack the car up so that the rear wheels are off the ground. Prop it up on jack stands and chock the front tires.No.2   Grip the rear tires at 6 and 12 o'clock, and push them in. If they have little or no resistance, they will most likely need new bearings.No.3   Remove the transmission tray, engine tray and the plastic cover from the suspension wishbone.No.4   Remove the rear wheels.No.5   Ensure that the parking brakes are set and that the car is in Park. A manual transmission should be in gear.No.6   Remove the axle nut.No.7   Take the brake pads off of the caliper and unbolt the caliper. Be careful not to strain the brake line.No.8   Release the parking brake.No.9   Loosen the screws which mount the rotor and remove it.No.10   Jack up the suspension housing so that the axle is parallel to the ground.No.11  Center a 2- or 3-arm puller on the axle shaft and remove the hub.The shaft will pull inward as you tighten the puller. When it has gone as far as it can, the hub will pop off.No.12  Remove the bearing race from the hub. This will require a hydraulic press.No.13   Remove the heater supply tube.No.14  Unbolt the CV joint. The bolts will be found near the transmission.No.15  Remove the axle.No.16  Remove the bolts from the housing surrounding the 2 bearing race retainers.No.17  Crank down on the threaded shaft of the bearing removal tool to extract the bearing.No.18  Apply high-temp grease lightly to the new bearing.No.19  Convert the wheel bearing removal tool to the replacement mode and install the bearing.No.20   Reinstall the bearing race retainers by replacing the bolts in the housing.No.21  Use the wheel bearing removal and replacement tool to reinsert the hub into the bearing, assuring that it is fully seated.Be careful not to push out the inner bearing race.No.22   Reinstall the axle assuring that you don't push the hub back out of the bearing.No.23   Reinsert the bolts which hold the CV joint to the transmission.No.24  Reinstall the rotor.No.25  Reset the parking brake.No.26   Replace the axle nut. Torque it to 339 foot (103.3 m)-pounds (459.684 Newton Meters, or 469.837 Kilogram Force Meters).No.27   Replace the brake caliper. Torque the bolts to 85 foot (25.9 m)-pounds (115.26 Newton Meters, or 117.56 Kilogram Force Meters).No.28  Replace the brake shoes.No.29   Reconnect the heater supply tube.No.30  Replace the wheel. Torque the bolts to 96 foot (29.3 m)-pounds (130.18 Newton Meters or 132.77 Kilogram Force Meters).No. 31  Replace the transmission cover, suspension cover and engine tray.No.32  Remove the jack stands and lower the car.

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