Question 1

Accepted Answer

What Causes a P0300 Code?Low Fuel PressureVacuum LeakEGR system malfunctionInternal Engine Problems (such as low compression)Less Common CausesFaulty CoilFaulty Spark Plugs and/or WiresCamshaft or Crankshaft sensorsIgnition moduleComputerTo troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. For this I personally use and recommend ALLDATAdiy. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manuals.How to Fix Fault Code P0300This code is one of the most common codes ever. If you notice that your check engine light is on you should have it checked for this code. If it is flashing then it is almost certainly this one or one like it such as P0301, P0302, etc. These are codes that show which cylinder the misfire is located in.The first thing I would do if the problem wasn't obvious by inspection is a full tune up. Many times this will fix this code. If you want to do more diagnosis so you don't just throw parts at it you will need to check each of the above items starting with the top four.The two most useful tests for diagnosing this code are a fuel pressure test and cylinder leak down test.Testing your vehicle fuel pressure is simple - All you need is a good product.A cylinder leakdown test is a little harder to do for the backyard mechanic because you need a source of compressed air. If you have that though, you can just go buy a cheap goods. This tool simply puts shop air into the cylinders when they are at top-dead-center (they should be sealed at this point). If there is leakage at this point then you will have a low compression problem.If you don't know how to check the items in the list above, you should take your car to a good auto repair shop. It probably will not (in most cases) cost too much for them to repair this problem. You car will run better, have more power and get better fuel mileage if you get the P0300 code repaired. It will also not be causing other problems by driving it like this.

Question 2

Accepted Answer

Premium Conventional Oil – standard new-car oil (5W-20 or 5W-30 oil with 10W-30 oil as an option for high-temperature areas such as the desert in summer).Full Synthetic Oil – made for high-tech engines where the oil needs to flow better at low temperatures and be at it’s top lubricity even at high temperatures. This oil type also costs more and some engines have features that synthetic oil doesn’t have.Synthetic Blend Oil – synthetic/organic mix formulated for heavier loads and high temperatures. Popular blend for trucks/SUVs.Higher Mileage Oil – formulated for vehicles with 75,000 miles or more. This oil type has an added seal conditioner that swells to stop leaks in the crankshaft. Always refer to your vehicle owner’s manual for the car manufacturers recommendation. Keep in mind, however, that the recommendation given is for a brand-new car, not the one that you put over 70k miles on since it was purchased. You can change oil brands when changing your oil but keep in mind to always go with a better type of oil, such as going from a premium conventional oil to the full synthetic oil.

Question 3

Accepted Answer

Because driving it is so much simpler, many motorists prefer an automatic transmission—but what vehicle owners need to know is that this critical automotive system requires some special maintenance and care. Some things to be aware of: Watch out for any leaks or stains that might appear under the vehicle, especially if they appear to have a red hue. This could be spilled fluid. If you’re leaking fluid, you’ll want to get it looked at immediately to prevent further damage to the engine.Be wary of any new noises or vibrations, or unusual behavior when the engine shifts gears. If it seems like driving the car causes the engine sudden, undue stress, you’ll want to have it inspected right away.Make sure to change the transmission fluid periodically. Your owner’s manual will tell you how often to do this, but it will likely be every 25,000 miles or so. If you’re not sure how to do this you can always have the car professionally serviced at your local Meineke Car Care Center. Automatic transmissions make life easier for drivers—so make sure that you do everything you can to take care of yours!

Question 4

Accepted Answer

Learn how to change oil by yourself. Full picture guide with step by step instructions written by a real mechanic who has done it hundreds of times.There are a lot of misconceptions when it comes to changing engine oil. there are many misconceptions floating around.  If you ask five people on the street how to perform an oil change, chances are you are going to end up with five different answers.I've done hundreds of oil changes on all types of vehicles and I'll show you all the tips and tricks I have picked up over the years. This guide will show you the correct steps to changing oil in a car safely and effectively. If you have a bit of technical experience and are willing to learn, you will be able to follow this guide and master how to change oil in a car by yourself.Tools Needed to Change Oil in a CarThe first step to changing oil in a car is to gather supplies. You don't want to end up with your car sitting out in the driveway with the oil drained out and not have the correct amount or weight of oil.If you don't know how much oil your engine takes or what weight it accepts ("weight" basically means thickness), you need to figure that out before you begin. The easiest way to do that is consult your owner's manual or go to Amazon and use the "Filter by vehicle" search. I highly recommend that you buy one extra quart for further top ups.Since you're shopping for parts, take the chance to buy an 4pc Funnel Setas well

Question 5

Accepted Answer

1. Wait for Your Car Engine to Cool DownFinding a spark plug that fits your vehicle is simple. What I do is go to the spark plugs and enter my vehicle year, make and model into their "filter by vehicle" search.If you skip this step, you might find it impossible to remove the spark plugs from your engine without ruining the threads. This is especially true for aluminium cylinder heads. While it is possible to repair a misthreaded spark plug hole, but it is difficult and should be left to a professional.2. Blow Out Debris Around Spark PlugsBlow off any dust, dirt or debris around and near the spark plug with a compressed air duster The last thing you'll want is foreign particles falling DIRECTLY into your engine and possibly causing premature engine wear.3. Make Sure Spark Plugs are Screwed in StraightIf spark plugs go in crooked, they can cross thread and you will have a problem. To make sure my spark plugs are screwed in straight, I like to wiggle them a bit as I'm inserting them in. If you notice the spark plug getting tight right at the beginning... then stop, take it out and restarting the screwing process.4. Change Spark Plugs One at a TimeIt is VERY easy to get the wires all mixed up, so just play it safe and do them one by one. If you have a car with a coil-on-plug system then this is not as much of a worry. Also, most all newer cars make it hard to put parts in the wrong place, but you have to be more careful with most older cars.Tools Needed for Spark Plug ReplacementChanging spark plugs is a simple job which just requires a few basic tools. As mentioned above, use a compressed air duster to blow off dirt and debris around the cylinders before spark plug replacement. You should also have a spark park gap tool in case you need to adjust the gap between the electrodes.It is a socket with a rubber insert to keep the spark plug from breaking during installation and removal.If you have a coil-on-plug system, then you will probably need either a small socket wrench or a screwdriver as most of them will be bolted on.

Question 6

Accepted Answer

One component of the hydraulic braking system’s drum brakes is the rear wheel cylinder. It has two internal pistons on each side extending from the inside of the cylinder when working the braking system. The piston will come in contact with the horns of the brake shoe and will be pushed outward to contact the inside of the diameter of the drum so that the vehicle can come into a stop, thus pressing on the brakes. If the quality of the brakes is compromised due to a leak, you do not have to remove the brake shoe nor its hardware. But, if the cylinder is blown out and has contaminated the rear brake shoe, this is the time to replace it. Cleaning will simply not fix the problem.Step 1 - Loosen Lug NutsDepending on which rear cylinder wheel you are replacing, this is where you loosen the lugs by turning it about a quarter of the way.Wheel Hub puller DNTStep 2 - Block the VehicleUse anything that can stop the car from rolling out of place while you are working on it or it can cause fatal accidents. Using a jack, place it under the car’s rear frame and lift the car. You can know completely remove the lug nuts from the tires.Step 3 – LubricateWith penetrating lubricant, spray the brake line connection that goes to the wheel cylinder. Take a drain pan and place it under so that you can collect any leaks from the area.Step 4 - Take off the DrumIf it is necessary, take out the rubber plug from behind the backing plate and do some readjustments to the brakes using a thin-bladed screwdriver and a brake spoon. This will make removal of the drum much easier.Step 5 - Break Brake Fitting from Wheel CylinderUse a line wrench and do it carefully. The lubricant you have placed will help the brake fitting move about around the steel brake line. If this part is stuck you can easily break this part by applying more penetrating fluid but remember that if you do this, it has to be replaced. As soon as the brake fitting is free, use a wrench to remove it. The pan should still be underneath to collect any of the brake fluid.Step 6 - Disconnect Upper BrakeUse the end of brake shoe pliers to remove from the seated retainer. Contaminated retainer should be disassembled using a brake shoe spring tool. If the brake shoes won’t be replaced, the two upper brake shoe return springs must be removed.Step 7 - Remove Retaining BoltsThese are the parts that hold the wheel cylinder in place. Now you can remove the wheel cylinder. As soon as this part is removed simply replace it with the new replacement cylinder you have purchased. Make sure it is the same model. Simply reverse the procedure of removing it. You can now bleed it by loosening the bleed screw. As soon as the flow is steady and air has passed, you can close it.Step 8 - Check Fluid LevelThe master cylinder will tell you if you need to add more fluid due to the prior leaking. Add more if necessary to level it off, and close it well.Step 9 - Test Brake with AssistantHave someone push on the pedal a few times and then push down. Open the bleeder screw on the master cylinder until fluid is pushed out from the screw. Repeat step until the brakes feel normal both in height and firmness. Never let the master cylinder become dry, and top it off with brake fluid after you do the tests.

Question 7

Accepted Answer

Rear brake shoes are often used in today's cars and light trucks more than disc brakes are used for rear brakes. But, like disc brakes, they can become worn and lose their effectiveness in slowing or stopping the car they are installed on. When this happens, these shoes—or linings—need to be replaced. If you are accustomed to doing some of the more simple maintenance on your car or truck you may want to know how to install new brake shoes to replace those that are worn and ineffective. With the right tools and instructions you should be able to install new shoes on a brake in less than half an hour.Step 1 – Safety PreparationsRaise your car's rear end by using a car jack. When you have it raised high enough, slip a jack stand under the frame on both sides of the car. Then lower the car again until its weight is resting on these jack stands.Step 2 – Remove the Rear WheelsBefore raising your car's rear end, crack loose each of the lug nuts holding the car's wheels in place. Then, when your car is raised and is resting on the jack stands, remove the wheels lug nuts and wheels, and move the wheels away from the car. When you have your wheels off, set your car's parking brake as an extra safety precaution.Step 3 – Remove the Brake DrumsTurn keeper bolts on your drums in a counter clockwise direction. These bolts are intended to hold the drums in place. When they are removed, pull the drums toward you. They should slip off easily, leaving the brake shoes fully exposed to view. With these drums removed, examine them for scoring or cracks. Examine the wheel cylinder for leaks that might indicate other worn brake parts.Step 4 – Remove Brake ShoesUsing a flathead screwdriver or brake tool, pry springs from the hooks that hold them to the shoes. Then, turn the center spring bolt, and remove the shoe from the axle.Step 5 – Attach New ShoesPress the new shoes onto the brake where they will naturally fit in only one direction. While holding the shoe in place, tighten the spring bolt, then fasten the long springs onto their hooks on each shoe. This will hold the shoes in place.Step 6 – Replace the Drum and Bleed the BrakesSlip the drum over the shoes and tighten its keeper bolt. Turn the bleeder nipple, which will open and allow fluid and air to bleed out. When only fluid begins to drain out, close the nipple and top off the fluid in the master cylinder.Step 7 – Complete the ProcessRepeat the shoe changing process with the other rear brake. When finished, test the brakes, make necessary adjustments, then replace the wheels with the lug nuts turned onto the wheel. Finally, lower the car, snug up the lug nuts and remove the floor jacks.

Question 8

Accepted Answer

As you drive your car, the wheels and tires come intact with varying types of terrain, including speed bumps, rough patches, potholes and over highway hazards. The up and down motion from this can be highly disruptive to your driving experience but fortunately, modern automobiles are outfitted with springs, which absorb much of this motion and keep your ride as smooth as possible.These springs are vital to your vehicle’s suspension. As such, if you are doing any kind of work on your suspension, it pays to know how these springs work. It's worth noting that there are different types of springs found within suspensions.Take a moment to familiarize yourself with these four classes of springs—coil springs, leaf springs, coil over springs, and lowering springs.Coil SpringsCoil springs are the easiest to visualize. They look basically like the typical coiled/spherical springs you’ve seen elsewhere. You’ll find coiled springs most often in older cars and in heavier trucks, specifically on the front suspension between the upper and lower control arms. These springs can carry some really heavy loads, but they don’t necessarily provide the smoothest ride quality, which is why you won’t find them as often in newer, smaller vehicles.Leaf SpringsHere’s another type of spring that you’re most often going to find primarily in trucks and in older vehicles. These springs actually look like long strips of metal, bowed to allow some rebound. Depending on the load size the vehicle is meant to carry, these springs may be layered. They are found mostly toward the rear of the vehicle, and, again, offer a ride with a fair amount of bounce to it, hence their not being as common in newer or smaller vehicles.Coil Over SpringsSitting over a strut carriage, the coiled over spring is probably the best way to get a great performance but also good ride quality. This is highly advanced spring technology, and you’ll find it at the front of almost every new car; for performance vehicles, you’ll find a coil over spring at the front and the back. You may even get a specialty wrench with your vehicle, making it easy to adjust your coil over spring.Lowered SpringsFinally, we come to some aftermarket spring options. The lowering spring lowers the vehicle’s center of gravity and alters the spring rate. These changes can enhance the vehicle’s performance, but can also compromise the quality of the ride and make for a truly difficult and bouncy driving experience. You’ll definitely want to speak with a suspension expert before you make this aftermarket change to your vehicle.Of course, as with any part of your vehicle, your springs may occasionally require some maintenance. If you notice any problems with your ride quality, make sure to take your vehicle in for an inspection by a suspension care expert.

Question 9

Accepted Answer

Repair a tire valve in 5 easy steps. Tire safety is an important aspect of the maintenance of our car. A tire valve is responsible for maintaining the air pressure in the tire. Without a tire valve or with a faulty, malfunctioning or broken valve, air will slowly leak from the valve stem causing a loss of air pressure. A low tire or disproportionate and unbalanced tires, as it relates to the tire pressure is extremely dangerous when driving at highway speeds. Inspect your tire valve every time you replace a tire, balance or repair the tire. If the valve is cracked or damaged, replace it immediately.Step 1 – Mount and Lift the CarUsing a couple car jacks, raise the car or the specific wheel in the air so you can comfortably move around the car and access the wheel.Step 2 – Inspect the Tire ValveBefore beginning the tire valve repair, take a look at the hole in the rim. Look for nicks or corrosion. Either issue could damage the repair or replacement valve and prevent a leak-free seal.Next, determine if you have a leak. Uncap the valve. Using the ends of your fingers, apply a little soapy water to the end of the uncapped valve. If bubbles form, you have a leak with the tire valve stem.Remove the tire from the car and deflate the tire. You can replace the valve while the tire is mounted on the car, but it requires extra precaution and skill. For safety reasons, we recommend you remove the tire completely.Step 3 – Remove the CorePut on a pair of safety glasses or goggles to prevent dust and particles from reaching your eyes. Using a valve core tool, remove the core. As you remove the core, pressure will release. Particles may shoot into the air.Step 4 – Insert New CoreBefore you insert the new core, inspect the threads of the valve. If corroded or dirty, clean the inside of the valve (the threads particularly) with a corrosion cleaner. Screw the new core in snugly. Do not thread to tight as you may strip the threads of the tire valve. Insert a valve stem-cap to maintain the cleanliness in and around the tire valve. This will prevent any further leaking and maintain the tire valve optimally.Step 5 – Re-mount the Tire and Lower the CarTake the tire to the gas station and using an air machine, reinflate the tire to the recommended pounds of pressure. Mount the tire back on the car. Lower the car back onto the ground and add air pressure to the tire. Drive car for a day or two and look for any new or persistent air leakage problems. If the tire is free from any and all leaks, you have fixed the problem.

Question 10

Accepted Answer

How to Change OilYou need to regularly check and change your car’s oil to ensure the vehicle runs smoothly and to prolong the lifespan of its engine. Changing your car’s oil is one of the most fundamental DIY skills you should have for car maintenance or repair. Of course, it’s a different story if the oil filter and oil drain plug of your car are very hard to reach.Check and change the engine oil regularly. A general rule of thumb is to change it every 3,000 miles, although most new cars these days can go for 5,000 miles before a change.Basic Steps to Change OilDrain the oil by removing the oil drain plugUnscrew oil filter, empty, and replaceAllow oil to drain into proper containerScrew in new oil filter and put drain plug back

Question 11

Accepted Answer

If you think that your brakes don't have sufficient stopping power, there could be a problem with the brake booster vacuum hose. This hose is instrumental in making the connection between the master cylinder and the brakes themselves, and when there is a leak, your brake pedal will still feel firm, but the brakes will lack power behind them. Repairing a brake booster leak is a matter of replacing this hose.Step 1 - Jack Up the VehicleDrive your vehicle onto a flat surface so you can use a good floor jack to lift the car. Place the tool under the frame and begin jacking up the vehicle. Set jack stands nearby so they can take the weight of the vehicle in case the jack slips by accident.Step 2 - Take off the Tires and Brake CoverUse an impact gun or a lug nut wrench to loosen the lug nuts on your tires. Set the lug nuts aside together in a safe place and remove the tires to gain access to the brake housing.On some models of vehicles, you'll find a metal cover over the brakes, too. Remove this by prying it off with the flat side of the lug nut wrench.Step 3 - Remove the Master CylinderYou will find the brake master cylinder located at the top of the brake assembly. It will be held in place by two nuts on threaded posts. Remove these nuts with an adjustable or open-ended wrench, and then remove the cylinder. This will allow you to get to the brake booster vacuum hose.Make sure you have a safe place, such as a plastic bag or a bowl, to put all of the nuts removed in this process so you don't lose them.Step 4 - Remove the Vacuum HoseThe brake booster vacuum hose will be in behind the master cylinder, held in place with one nut. Remove this and slide the hose out from the rear of the brake housing. Disconnect it from the brake line, and take it to your local auto parts store to make sure you buy a properly fitting replacement.Step 5 - Install a New Vacuum HoseOnce you have the old vacuum hose off of the brake line and brake assembly, position the new one in its proper place and begin securing it. Reconnect the brake line as well as the assembly itself. Then, replace the nut for the brake booster vacuum hose.Step 6 - Replace the Brake CylinderNow that the new vacuum hose is installed, you can slide the master cylinder back onto the threaded post. Secure with the two nuts that you removed initially.Step 7 - Bleed Brake LinesAny time you work with the brake lines, you'll need to bleed them afterward in order to release any air trapped inside. Open the bleeding nut on the back of the brake assembly and let the brake fluid flow until pure liquid comes out. Close the bleeding nut and add brake fluid to the reservoir to replace any that was lost.Step 8 - Replace Tires and Lower CarReplace the brake cover and tires. Tighten the lug nuts onto the wheel and lower the car back to the ground.

Question 12

Accepted Answer

U joints or universal joints are located at both ends of a drive shaft and serve the purpose of transferring engine power and torque from the transmission to the drive wheels. Even the toughest U-joints can wear out and show symptoms like clunking sounds when the vehicle is put into gear, as well as vibration. To avoid a catastrophe, install new U joints by following these easy steps.Step 1:  Disassembly of the DriveshaftFirst, protect your hands from transmission fluids and other things by wearing protective gloves which may be preferably of plastic or rubber. Lock your vehicle on a jack stand and elevate the back end to avoid flow of fluids when you remove the driveshaft. Indicate the position of the driveshaft to conserve its balance during reinstallation. Disassemble the driveshaft.Step 2: Removing CapsUnfasten the four holding clips on the caps. Your new U-joints may have come with new holding clips so you do not have to show caution or be gentle. Align your U joint tool with the yoke and twist the bolts until the cross and caps are at a distance which will enable the parallel cap’s removal. Be careful not to drive the cap being used to apply pressure into the other side of the yoke. Separate the yoke from the U- joint tool and the cap that has been pressed through.Step 3: Use a socketUse a socket for centering the cross while the pressed cap is being pushed back from the other side of the yoke. Choose a socket of a smaller size than the cap so that it easily transfers to the other side of the yoke.Step 4: Pushing CapsReinstall the U joint tool and twist the bolts until the left over cap is pushed to the other side of the yoke. It may be tough to remove some inflexible caps as the grease causes the bearings of the needle to hold. Ensure that your new caps also have enough grease to keep the bearings in position.Step 5: Install New CapsThis process is exactly the opposite of removal and is just as easy. Ensure that the cap and center are aligned with the yoke ahead of pressure being applied to the tool. Express caution when lining up all the needle bearings. Position your U joint tool as you did in the removal process, to set your caps into position. Twist the screw until the cap is pushed enough to go past the holding clip furrow.Step 6 Repeat ProcedureRepeat this process for each cap until all the caps and cross are aligned with the yoke.Step 7: Re-installation and CheckUse your fresh holding clips and install them to the caps. Re-assemble the drive shaft. Now your car should not make clunking noises when changing gear or vibrate with the speed of the transmission output.

Question 13

Accepted Answer

Installing replacement coil springs on your car requires the right technique and some specialist equipment. The job is not extremely difficult, but it is risky. If you observe some sensible safety precautions, you stand a better chance of success.Step 1 – Vehicle RaisingFirst, you must raise your vehicle to a height that it is safely off the ground so that you can easily access the coil springs. Place the car jack under your car and secure it beneath the solid part of the engine cradle before use. If you prefer, you can use a hydraulic jack to support the suspension as you raise the car up.Always consider safety and use preventative measures to stop the car from slipping off the jacks. Before you raise the car, crack the nuts on the wheels to loosen them.Step 2 – Wheel RemovalWhen the car is jacked up safely, remove the front wheels. This procedure largely depends on the make and model you are working on. Different cars have different set ups so use the correct removal process for the car you are repairing.Step 3 – Ball JointYou will have to remove the lower ball joint from the control arm. The average size nut on these is a 13/16” so make sure you have a socket that will correctly fits the size you are removing.  Then use the pickle fork between the control arm and the spindle. This will separate the mechanical welding between the two. You will then have to jack up the rotor to remove the control arm from the spindle stud.Step 4 – Removing the StrutOpen the hood and locate the three mounting bolts that hold the strut into the body. Undo all three of these nuts. Then, slip the strut out of position and away from the car. Keep all the nuts safe so that you can use them to replace the new parts. Coil springs don’t come with replacement nuts.Step 5 – Compressing the CoilTo remove the coil from the strut you must, above all, observe safety. The coil springs must be compressed before you undo the bolt at the top of the strut. This is one of the most dangerous parts of vehicle maintenance and the spring can uncoil and do serious harm. Use the compression brackets at 180 degrees, opposite each other on the spring and tighten them evenly with about 8 – 10 turns each before swapping. Once they have been compressed tightly, you can remove the holding bolt at the top of the strut and take the coil off.Step 6 – Installing the New Coil SpringYou will also need to compress the new coil spring before you attempt to put it back on the car. Use the same method of compression that you employed on the old springs and keep them at 180 degree opposing angles. Once the tool is tightened you can then place the new spring on the strut.  At the bottom of the strut there is a groove which the lower end of the coil spring will slip into and sit. Rest it in that groove and tighten the top bolt. When the new coil spring has been fully installed and secured, you can remove the compression tool.Step 7 – Reinstalling the StrutThis is a reverse technique to the removal procedure, so replace the strut in the retaining hole of the body and replace the three holding bolts. Then, jack up the rotor again and lock the spindle and control arm back together.  Follow the reverse procedure to replace all the remaining parts.

Question 14

Accepted Answer

Troubleshooting problems with your brake master cylinder requires some basic knowledge of car mechanics. You may never have replaced or checked this part before and if you are new to the mechanical side of motoring, you will need some good suggestions on what to listen and look for. Here are some methods you can use to diagnose the more common problems associated with this part.Check the Brake PressureOne of the major indications that your brake master cylinder is failing will be a lack of brake pressure when you depress the appropriate pedal. If you sit with your foot on the pedal and press it a few times, then keep it pressed right to the floor, it will let you know how soft it actually is. Very soft brake pedal movement is a direct result of a brake master cylinder failure. It is not possible to fully repair a master cylinder so you will need to have it replaced with a new one at this point.Check Brake Fluid LevelsLow brake fluid levels in the master cylinder will cause braking problems and a soft feeling in the brake pedal when you depress it. If you find no signs that the fluid levels are low or leaking then you can look to the failure of the master cylinder as the main cause of this issue. Make sure the fluids are secure in the reservoirs and closed correctly and that the lids are firmly in place.Assess the Metal Brake LinesThe metal brake lines that go to the brake master cylinder can rot and develop a leak. Fluid can also leak through the O-rings inside the cylinder. If this is so, you will not see particularly visible signs of brake fluid escaping, but if you grab a clean rag and run it along the brake lines you will be able to detect if any wet fluid is escaping. If there is no sign, then again, it points to problems with the brake master cylinder.Evaluate the Master Cylinder GrommetsThere is a plastic reservoir attached to the master cylinder that holds the brake fluid. That reservoir is mounted on to the metal part of the master cylinder by rubber grommets. These will allow for some level of regular movement caused by the brake pedal and pressures of the fluids. However, they can weaken, break down, and then leak fluid. You will be able to see visible brake fluid leaking out in this case.Final ConclusionsIf you have thoroughly checked all the exterior components and have found no signs of anything that points away toward problems with other parts, then you can safely conclude that your brake master cylinder is failing or has already failed. Putting all the above possibilities to the test will allow you to eliminate other possible causes of any symptoms which emulate the same behavior as a faulty brake master cylinder.

Question 15

Accepted Answer

Toyota brake repair does not necessarily need a Toyota service department or even a brake repair shop to repair the disk brake pads. The brake pads are small, wearable parts of the entire brake system that will periodically need replacement, so it is helpful to know how to do it yourself. Considering how many Toyota vehicles are on the road, old and new alike, finding replacement parts is as easy as going to your local auto parts store, or even ordering them online. Ultimately, if you are not able to find the exact part needed, you can get the parts from the dealership and replace them yourself. Brake pads, for most passenger cars, trucks, and SUVs will cost less than fifty dollars for a set. While you can not repair a worn or broken brake disc, they are inexpensive enough that it's easier to just replace them. Here is what you will need to do.Step 1 - Prepare the VehiclePark the vehicle on a level surface, put it in gear, and apply the emergency brake. Chock the wheels that you will not be working on. Make sure that the vehicle is secure. With the tire of the side that you will be working on still on the ground, loosen the lug nuts on the wheel. Jack the vehicle up at the point indicated in the owner's manual, far enough to lift the wheel off the ground, and insert a jack stand next to the jack. Jack the jack stand up so that it is also supporting the vehicle. Remove the jack, if desired.Step 2 - Remove Brake BootThere is a metal boot that fits over the brake rotor and holds the disk break pads close to the rotor. This is typically affixed with two or four bolts. Using the socket set or wrenches, find the right sized socket or wrench and remove the bolts. Slip the boot off of the rotor. The brake pads are inserted and secured with metal tabs, that when the pressure on these tabs is released, the pads will pop out. Remove the old pads. Insert the new pads in the reverse order that you removed the old ones.Step 3 - Reinstall the BootAdjust the piston that controls the grip of the brake pads. There are two types, a straight compression and a turnable piston. Typically, if you are working on a rear wheel, it will need to be turned to disengage it far enough to fit the boot back on the rotor. This may actually need to be done to even get the new brake pads on. You can do this using a pair of needle nosed pliers, turning it counter-clockwise. If the piston needs to be compressed, uncap the brake fluid in the engine compartment. Using a large C clamp, compress the piston in the brake boot. Have another person watch the level of the brake fluid and draw off any excess as the compression happens. Compress only enough to get the boot back on. Rebolt the boot with the new pads in it's original place, and reinstall the wheel. repeat the process on the other side of the vehicle.

Question 16

Accepted Answer

You can easily break your key in your car ignition, especially if you're in a hurry and you turn the key too quickly or hard. And, with plenty of rumors about how to remove a key, getting the key out of your ignition can seem impossible. But, with the right household tools and the tips below, removing a broken key from your ignition is simple.Using PliersIf there is enough of the broken key sticking out of the ignition, you can use needle-nose pliers to latch onto the key and pull it out.Step 1 – Apply Sticky SubstanceTo help you grip the key piece with your pliers, you can also apply some super glue, melted wax, or putty on your tool's tip. If you do use one of these materials on your pliers, have cotton swabs and acetone handy to help unglue the pliers from the key once you’ve pulled it out.Step 2 – Pull out KeyLatch onto the key piece with your pliers, and pull the key out. If you choose to use super glue, wait until the glue has set a little bit before attempting to pull the key out.Using a Wire Coat HangerIf using pliers doesn't work, try using a wire coat hanger to remove your key.Step 1 – Shape the HangerUsing a 6-8 inch wire coat hanger, shape one end of the wire hanger into a hook with your pliers.Step 2 – Insert the HookInsert this wire hook into your car’s ignition, behind or in front of the broken car key, and attempt to fish the pieces out.Using a HacksawIf your car key is stuck in a locked position and you can’t grip it with pliers or a coat hanger, you should put your ignition in the “neutral" position.Step 1 – Put the Ignition in a Neutral PositionFace the teeth of a thin hacksaw blade upward beside the broken key in the ignition, and simply turn the ignition, so that’s it’s no longer locked in place.Step 2 – Pull the Blade OutPull the hacksaw blade out carefully. The hacksaw blade may be able to grab onto the front or back of the key to help pull it out. If you’re lucky, the blade will latch onto the groove of the key. Twist and wiggle the hacksaw blade until the car key latches into the blade.Step 3 – Incorporate PliersIf the above steps don’t work by themselves, try using a combination method. Use the hacksaw blade to push the key out some, and then use the pliers to pull the broken car-key piece from the ignition.Using Cooking Spray or WD-40Step 1 – Apply Chosen SubstanceIf you still can’t get the key out, try applying some cooking spray or WD-40 to the inside of the ignition. However, do not complete this step if you want to use the pliers again, as this method will make the key too slippery to grab onto.Step 2 – Use HacksawThen, try to push the key out with a hacksaw blade. Wiggle the blade inside the ignition to get it to latch onto the grooves of the blade.

Question 17

Accepted Answer

If you think that your brakes don't have sufficient stopping power, there could be a problem with the brake booster vacuum hose. This hose is instrumental in making the connection between the master cylinder and the brakes themselves, and when there is a leak, your brake pedal will still feel firm, but the brakes will lack power behind them. Repairing a brake booster leak is a matter of replacing this hose.Step 1 - Jack Up the VehicleDrive your vehicle onto a flat surface so you can use a good floor jack to lift the car. Place the tool under the frame and begin jacking up the vehicle. Set jack stands nearby so they can take the weight of the vehicle in case the jack slips by accident.Step 2 - Take off the Tires and Brake CoverUse an impact gun or a lug nut wrench to loosen the lug nuts on your tires. Set the lug nuts aside together in a safe place and remove the tires to gain access to the brake housing.On some models of vehicles, you'll find a metal cover over the brakes, too. Remove this by prying it off with the flat side of the lug nut wrench.Step 3 - Remove the Master CylinderYou will find the brake master cylinder located at the top of the brake assembly. It will be held in place by two nuts on threaded posts. Remove these nuts with an adjustable or open-ended wrench, and then remove the cylinder. This will allow you to get to the brake booster vacuum hose.Make sure you have a safe place, such as a plastic bag or a bowl, to put all of the nuts removed in this process so you don't lose them.Step 4 - Remove the Vacuum HoseThe brake booster vacuum hose will be in behind the master cylinder, held in place with one nut. Remove this and slide the hose out from the rear of the brake housing. Disconnect it from the brake line, and take it to your local auto parts store to make sure you buy a properly fitting replacement.Step 5 - Install a New Vacuum HoseOnce you have the old vacuum hose off of the brake line and brake assembly, position the new one in its proper place and begin securing it. Reconnect the brake line as well as the assembly itself. Then, replace the nut for the brake booster vacuum hose.Step 6 - Replace the Brake CylinderNow that the new vacuum hose is installed, you can slide the master cylinder back onto the threaded post. Secure with the two nuts that you removed initially.Step 7 - Bleed Brake LinesAny time you work with the brake lines, you'll need to bleed them afterward in order to release any air trapped inside. Open the bleeding nut on the back of the brake assembly and let the brake fluid flow until pure liquid comes out. Close the bleeding nut and add brake fluid to the reservoir to replace any that was lost.Step 8 - Replace Tires and Lower CarReplace the brake cover and tires. Tighten the lug nuts onto the wheel and lower the car back to the ground.

Question 18

Accepted Answer

The power steering assembly in your car transfers the hydraulic power from the steering fluid to each of the wheels so that your car will be more responsive and easier to direct when driving. After a few years of use, you may notice that the steering is not as good as it was. This may be a result of a fluid leaks, often in the hoses or as a result of a bad steering rack. When this happens, there is a lot you can do to fix the problem yourself.Step 1 - Use Some Brake Fluid for a Temporary FixMany people who have had some leaks with the rack and pinion problems will put some brake fluid into the power steering reservoir. This will not replace the power steering fluid, but will add it into the mix. This has been successful as a short term fix in order to get you home or to a repair center.Step 2 - Park Car on RampTo get at the rack and pinion, you will need to crawl under the vehicle. A pair of heavy duty car ramps are a good option for safely lifting your car enough to work under it. Place the ramps on a flat surface and carefully drive the front wheels of your vehicle onto them. When you reach the top, put the car in park and turn off the engine. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels and apply the emergency break so that it does not accidentally roll while you're working.Step 3 - Clean HosesTake some time to clean the hose from the rack and pinion of any grease, dirt, and fluids. This will help you better determine where the leak is coming from. Also, look at the overall condition of the hoses while you are cleaning them. You may find that they are dry and brittle, in which case they will need to be replaced.Step 4 - Locate the LeakFill your power steering reservoir only slightly with fluid, briefly turn your vehicle back on, and turn your steering wheel back and forth for a few minutes. Then, turn the car off again and carefully inspect your power steering hoses and rack. Since you just cleaned your hoses, any new fluid on them should tell you the source of the leak.Step 5 - Drain Power Steering FluidPlace a drip pan underneath the power steering unit, remove the bottom bolt, and drain out the fluid completely. You will always want fresh fluid in the system after a repair. Make sure you dispose of the old fluid properly as well.Step 6 - Replace HosesThe power steering hoses that are connected to the rack and pinion are high pressure hoses that will be bolted into place, so you will need to remove them with a crescent wrench or a socket wrench. Since they need to be on very tight, you might have trouble getting them off. In this case, you can use a lubricant to help. Loosen the top bolt on the hose first before removing the bolt down by the steering rack. Then, fit your new power steering hose in place starting at the bottom and moving to the top. Get the bolts nice and tight again so you don't have to worry about problems later.Step 7 - Replace GasketsThere are a few gaskets on the rack and pinion assembly that may need to be replaced if they are dried out and worn. Simply remove the old ones and make sure you buy suitable replacements. Then, refit them in the same spot and secure.Step 8 - Replace Rack and PinionSome leaks are caused because the rack and pinion is failing. When this happens you can use some Leak Stop to seal up some of the cracked areas, but you will need to replace the rack and pinion to stop the leaks entirely.Start by securing your steering wheel so that it doesn't move when the rack is removed. Then, take off both of your front wheels to give yourself easier access to the steering rack.Unfasten and remove the tie rod from the vehicle; a new steering rack will not come with one, so you will have to attach it to the existing tie rods before you can finish the installation. Unscrew the rack assembly from the tie rod next, and then repeat the process on the other side of the car.Next, remove the stabilizer bolts from the torsion bar and unbolt it from the frame. Slide this out of the way some so you can get to the bolts that actually hold the rack in place. You'll need to remove the power steering lines from the rack as well before you finally unscrew the pinch bolt on the steering column shaft so the whole assembly slides off.Slide the new rack into this groove and begin reversing the whole process to secure it in place. Make sure your tie rod is aligned identically on either side to what it was on the old assembly. You should still take your vehicle into a shop after this repair for a realignment, however, just to be sure you're set.Step 9 - Refill the Power Steering FluidNow that your leak has hopefully been fixed with new hoses, new gaskets, and a new steering rack, it's time to refill your reservoir with fluid.

Question 19

Accepted Answer

Should you invest the time and money required to have your vehicle’s suspension lowered? It’s a question that many drivers never even think about. Before you make the decision to proceed with lowering your vehicle’s suspension, consider the options and understand the pros and cons that a lowered suspension entails.Why Get a Lowered Suspension?Lowering your suspension is an aftermarket alteration that makes your vehicle sit a little bit lower to the ground. There are several implications to this, including a number of performance and safety advantages.Here are some of the main advantages of lowering your suspension:Improved aerodynamics. When the vehicle sits closer to the ground, it means there is less air going underneath the vehicle, which in turn means less wind drag on the car.Improved handling and traction. Generally speaking, lowering the vehicle closer to the ground improves the tires’ grip on the road, leading to improved handling. But this is not true across the board, as lowering the suspension on some vehicles may actually impair handling.Reduced risk of rollover. A high center of gravity is a liability for any vehicle, giving it a higher risk of rollover. Lowering the suspension lowers the center of gravity and reduces the risk of a rollover.Enhanced comfort. This is somewhat subjective, but some drivers say that lowering the suspension simply makes their vehicle more comfortable and less prone to rattling around.Are There Disadvantages to Lowering the Suspension?The perks of suspension lowering are significant, but it’s also important to note some of the potential downsides to lowering the suspension of a vehicle. Here are some of the main downfalls:Increased bottoming out. When you lower the suspension, you raise the risk of the vehicle’s bottom skidding against the ground, especially when it bounces. Speed bumps can be especially difficult here. Contact with the ground can leave many of your vehicle’s components vulnerable.Unevenness in the tire wear. In some instances, lowering the suspension can have ill effects on the tire wear patterns. This is definitely something to ask about before you have the suspension lowered.Conflict with other systems and components. Sometimes when you lower the suspension, you bring it into closer contact with other parts of the car. The results of this can be problematic, especially when you bring the suspension too close to the anti-lock brake system, the tire sidewalls, etc.Making Changes to Your SuspensionThe bottom line is that changing your suspension has both positive and negative effects on your vehicle. It’s best to talk about this process with a trained mechanic who can help you think through all the implications. Don’t make any suspension changes until you’re confident about how they will pan out.

Question 20

Accepted Answer

How Often to Change Air Filter in a Car The first thing you need to do when trying to figure out when to change your air filter is to look in your owner's manual. You will find a maintenance schedule that lists when all maintenance items (like air filters and oil filters) should be replaced.You will also notice that there is a "normal" maintenance schedule and a "severe" maintenance schedule. Most people will use the normal maintenance schedule, but if you are driving in conditions that will cause more dirt to get stuck in your filter, then you should go by the severe maintenance schedule. The first rule of thumb is to go with what the service manual says. If your car or truck is under warranty then you need to be sure to change your air filter at least as often as it says in the manual. If you don't then it could void your warranty. If you don't have your owner's manual or if your car or truck is not under warranty anymore then you can decide for yourself when it needs to be changed. When to change air filter in a car: I change my engine air filter every year or so. I drive in many different conditions and on many different types of roads so I need to change my air filter more than some people.If you just drive on roads most of the time, then you can probably go two years or more without having to replace your filter. However if you drive long distances, or drive in dusty or offroad conditions (e.g. rural areas, construction zones, gravel roads), then you will need to change your air filter more often.Most cars and trucks are just used to get from one place to another. If you drive a high performance vehicle in which the amount of air going into the engine may be more crucial then you may need to change your air filter more often.Now that you know when to change air filter in a car, what's left is to remind yourself to check your engine air filter every six months or so.On more than one occasion, I have found mouse nests inside the air box under the filter. I even seen one air filter that the mice had partially chewed through which meant that the engine was sucking in unfiltered air. Checking your air filter every six months will help you notice if anything like this is happening and catch it before it causes any damage.

Question 21

Accepted Answer

Can You Believe This Car Has Over 60,000 Miles on Its Odometer?So, you washed your car interior and exterior and you are driving around town when your car suddenly starts to cough and sputter. Like any other machine, your car's engine and its engine compartment also need cleaning in order for your car to run like it just rolled out of the showroom. Following are steps to follow on how to clean your car's motor and its engine compartment.How to Clean a Car EngineCleaning a car engine is not hard—it involves just a little elbow grease.Step 1: Preparing the Engine for CleaningTry and remove any debris trapped in your grill, hood, or vent openings. If you have access to compressed air, the job is quick; if there is no easy access, not so much. All you need, though, is a small hand brush to do the job. Following debris removal, it is time for preparing the engine for getting wet. Cover sensors, exposed wiring, the distributor, and spark plug openings. Plastic baggies work well for this job and need only a little tape or rubber bands to stay put. You are not looking at making the engine waterproof, you just want to prevent most of the water from getting these items soaked. Actually, your engine is most likely waterproof from the factory – baggies are extra precautions.Step 2: Loosen Accumulated GreaseTalk about an effortless step! Start your car and let it run 5-10 minutes. This loosens the accumulated grease and oil and other stuff stuck on the engine. In addition, a warm engine works well with degreaser products.Step 3: Applying Engine DegreaserMake sure you buy a water or citrus-based cleaner. Petroleum based products work fast, but are also harsh and degrade rubber hoses and seals. Apply the degreaser from the bottom up so that while you are working on cleaning the engine, the degreaser won't drip down on you. Also, keep in mind that if you over spray the degreaser it will remove the wax from your fenders. Cover them or spray very carefully so you don't have to deal with re-waxing chores. After you apply the degreaser, hose off your fenders if they were not protected. Other areas that need hosing off include the hood and grille.If your car engine is clean, let the degreaser soak in for about three minutes. Very dirty engines need five minutes for the degreaser to loosen everything. For moderate to light buildup, there is no need to use a hand brush. For heavy deposits, use a parts brush (it is long-handled) so you can easily reach all parts of the engine. When using the brush, use a little car wash solution so that the brush's agitation has a little help in removing heavy soil before you hose down the engine.Step 4:How to Wash a Car EngineOnce time is up for the degreaser, you have to hose it off. It is best not to use a high-pressure nozzle, as it may damage electrical connections even if you covered them. A regular garden hose with an adjustable nozzle set at "stream" will work well.Step 5: Drying Your EngineThe heat from your engine helps it dry quickly. Never let your engine air dry as it spots. Instead, after a few minutes of letting the engine dry itself, wipe it down with a clean microfiber towel.Tip - After you dry your engine, spray it with a brand-name engine cleaner. Wipe off any extra protectant and buff to a showroom shine.

Question 22

Accepted Answer

How long do wiper blades generally last?Wiper longevity depends on where you live. Heat really wears on those rubber windshield squeegees; therefore, if you live in a hot climate, wipers will inevitably require more frequent replacement. Accordingly, if you use your wipers often – and live in a rainy, snowy or icy neck of the country – expect a shortened blade life.A general wiper blade rule of thumb: if wipers smear water or snow and obstruct your view when they swoosh by, it’s time for new blades.Why don’t wiper blades last longer?Wiper blades may be one of the most misunderstood parts in automotive history. After all, they’re the only true functioning component that is completely exposed to the nasty outside elements, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days of the year. Talk about a tough life. And a tough job keeping visibility clear – whatever the weather.Given these factors, it’s no wonder something so small, thin and crucial can only provide optimal visibility for so long.What are the biggest factors that cause wiper blades to wear down?Your wipers are exposed to the outside world day in and day out, which means everything from heat and rain to snow, road salt and ice all have an effect. On top of these factors, blades just wear down over time with repeated use.What happens as wiper blades get older?All that sun. All that heat. All that use. All these factors affect the life of your wiper blades. As your rubber wiper blades endure the elements, they start losing their flexibility and become brittle. The rubber cracks and tears. The blades wear down, exposing metal. Eventually, you’re left with blades that streak and smudge, making it more difficult to see all that’s ahead of you. Worst of all, if the rubber runs out on the blade, the metal underneath can scratch your windshield. Will I be able to tell a difference when I have my wiper blades replaced?Replacing your blades can be like taking a blindfold off of your eyes. Better functionality will lead to better visibility. Our selection of Bosch wiper blades come highly regarded by the automotive industry, thanks to advanced design and superior quality. New Bosh wiper blades deliver stellar visibility.What are some symptoms that you need new wiper blades?Smearing, smudging, streaking, rubbing, scraping on your windshield. If your swooshes don’t sound right, look right, or, most importantly, if you can’t see well when your blades go back and forth, it’s time for a wiper replacement.We carry Bosch’s latest technology. And we have blade sizes designed for virtually every vehicle make and model. Wiper blades are a quick and easy replacement, and we’d be happy to install your next set.

Question 23

Accepted Answer

How Often Do You Need to Change Oil?To find out how often to change oil in your car, you should turn to your owner's manual. Most cars these days go anywhere from 7,500 miles to 10,000 miles or more between oil changes.Many vehicles have a calculator built into the cars computer that will calculate oil change frequency for the engine. This calculator takes things into account like temperature, crankshaft rpm's, mileage, etc. and it will make a calculation based on pre-set conditions. The it will display how many miles you have to go until your next oil change. These systems are reliable and there is no need to have your oil changed before your vehicle says it is time to do so.Even if you don't have this feature on your car or truck just go by the oil change interval listed in your owner's manual. Changing the oil more often than the manufacturer will give you very little benefit and will cost you a lot more money over the life of the vehicle.

Question 24

Accepted Answer

You understand certain colors when it comes to driving. Green means “go.” Yellow means “caution.” Red means “stop.” Traffic lights are supposed to change color, but what does it mean if your car’s exhaust starts swapping shades? It could mean nothing, or it could be a sign that there’s a problem you need to have checked out. Before your next drive has a chance to “go up in smoke,” review the car exhaust color coding below to help you determine if it may be time for an oil leak repair, an engine tune up, a coolant check, or something more serious. (Psst! If you have a diesel engine, please consult with a technician. The following information is geared towards gasoline engines and may not be appropriate for your vehicle.)Car Exhaust Smoke ColorsSmoke Color: Light or thin white exhaust smokeDiagnosis: NormalLight or thin white exhaust smoke is typically water vapor. You’ll notice it the first time you start your car, especially if it’s a cold day. This happens because condensation naturally collects in the exhaust system. Light or thin white exhaust smoke is common in vehicles.Smoke Color: Blue/gray exhaust smokeDiagnosis: Not normalBlue/gray exhaust smoke means there’s likely an oil leak and your engine is burning oil. Time to have a qualified technician check things out. The leak could be caused by several issues like leaking valve seals, damaged piston rings, or worn cylinder walls.Pro-Tip: Blue smoke during acceleration means your vehicle’s piston rings may be damaged. During deceleration, however, blue smoke means the cylinder heads’ valve guides are damaged. Either way, something is damaged that shouldn’t be. Help your technician diagnose the issue by taking note of when the blue smoke occurs, then head to your nearest Firestone Complete Auto Care!Smoke Color: Black exhaust smokeDiagnosis: Not normalBlack exhaust smoke can appear when the vehicle is burning too much fuel. This could be caused by a clogged air filter, malfunctioning fuel injection system, a blocked manifold, or a variety of other issues. A clogged air filter won’t hurt your gas mileage thanks to today’s automotive technology, says Consumer Reports, but you’ll pay for it with poor performance. Have your vehicle checked out by a technician to see why your vehicle is burning more fuel than usual.Smoke Color: Persistent, thick white/gray exhaust smokeDiagnosis: Not normalA steady stream of thick white/gray exhaust smoke coming from your tailpipe could mean there’s a leaking head gasket. “In this case,” automotive writer Paul Brand explains, “the coolant would end up being heated in the combustion chambers and blown out the exhaust as the engine starts.” A coolant leak in the summer could easily lead to an overheated engine, and an overheated engine could leave you stranded on the side of the road.Heavy white/gray exhaust smoke pouring from your tailpipe could also mean a cracked block or cylinder head—both very serious problems that should be addressed quickly. Waiting too long could cost you in repairs.If your exhaust is sending up smoke signals, play it safe and visit the professionals. Your car may be trying to inform you of an oil leak, broken engine part, a clogged filter, or something else. Find your nearest Firestone Complete Auto Care and bring your vehicle in for a courtesy inspection today, and if needed, an important repair!

Question 25

Accepted Answer

What Is Brake Caliper Sticking?Brake caliper sticking isn't that common, but it is important to have it diagnosed and fixed right away because it affects the safety of your vehicle.Brake caplier sticking symptoms: Do you find that your vehicle pulls more to one side when braking? Or perhaps the brakes don't seem to release all the way after you let go of the pedal?If yes, then you may indeed have a stuck brake caliper. Before you take your car or truck down to a repair shop, learn what causes brake calipers to stick and how you can fix them.Caliper BoltsThe brake caliper bolts also have slides on them that need to stay lubed. They have protective rubber boots on them to keep the lubrication in, but sometimes careless mechanics tear them when they are installing new brake pads.Besides causing them to dry out and rust, debris may seep in as well... so they no longer slide like they should. In extreme cases this will cause the brakes to stick. Sometimes you can take these bolts out and recondition them, but you may just need new bolts. If new bolts are not available, then the only solution is to buy a new caliper.Another thing that can sometimes happen is the bolts will sometimes break off. This happens more often when a mechanic over tightens them. It is important to take your car or truck to a repair shop that you can trust.Caliper PistonSometimes brake caliper sticking is caused by the piston. As you can see in the image above, the piston has a rubber boot around it. This rubber boot protects, seals and lubricates the piston.This boot is easily torn when retracting the piston back into the caliper while replacing the brake pads. If it gets torn, then rust and other debris can build up inside the caliper and cause the piston to not slide smoothly. This can cause the brake caliper to stick. Sometimes you can find brake caliper rebuild kits, but most of the time the only way to fix this type of problem is to replace the brake caliper assembly.Brake HoseSometimes the brake hoses will wear out internally. This can create a small piece of brake hose to break mostly off, but still have a small piece attached to the main part of the hose.This will make a sort of valve that lets the brake fluid flow in only one way. When you step on the brake pedal, the fluid could flow to the brake pistons and cause the pads to engage and slow the vehicle... but then when you let off the brakes, the fluid would not be able to return to the master cylinder.This will cause the caliper to stick and make the vehicle pull to that side. This can be a tough problem to diagnose even for a seasoned mechanic.One way that it can be done is to raise the vehicle up and step on the brakes, then let off and try to turn the wheels. If one of them won't turn, then open the bleeder valve and see if brake fluid shoots out. If it does, then you know that there was a lot of pressure built up in the braking system. This could be caused by a bad brake hose. Avoiding a Stuck Brake CaliperThe best way to avoid brake caliper sticking problems is to take care of your brakes. If you replace brake pads and top up brake fluid when needed, then you shouldn't run into any problems with your brake caliper.Depending on how much mileage you clock up, most calipers will last the life of the vehicle or close to it. Sometimes brake caliper sticking problems can be quite hard to diagnose so don't be afraid to seek professional help if needed.Why is My Brake Caliper Sticking?What causes brake calipers to stick? To answer your question, I have listed the most common causes below and what you can do about them:Caliper SildesThere are grooves located in the caliper that hold the brake pads and let them slide in as you push on the brake pedal and out when you let off. Sometimes the brake pad shims get stuck in the grooves or they just get corroded or debris built up in them. This will cause the pads to not be able to slide in and out correctly and make them stick.Brake caliper sticking fix: If this is the problem with your brakes, you shouldn't need new calipers - You should be able to just clean them or replace the shims that are causing the problem. In some cases, the metal groove might be getting worn out. If that is the case then the whole caliper assembly would need to be replaced.

Question 26

Accepted Answer

How to DIY change oils?The first step to changing oil in a car is to gather supplies. You don't want to end up with your car sitting out in the driveway with the oil drained out and not have the correct amount or weight of oil.If you don't know how much oil your engine takes or what weight it accepts ("weight" basically means thickness), you need to figure that out before you begin. The easiest way to do that is consult your owner's manual or go to Amazon and use the "Filter by vehicle" search. I highly recommend that you buy one extra quart for further top ups.To troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck.1. Warm Engine and Park on Level SurfaceAfter you have collected all of the tools and supplies you need to prepare your vehicle.How to change oil: The first thing you should do is start the car and let it run for one to two minutes (longer if the weather is cool). This will warm the oil and the engine and that will allow more of the oil to drain out. Just don't run the engine too long - You don't want to be scalded trying to oil out of the engine.After the engine is warm, find a flat surface to park on (preferably a driveway or pavement). Then put the car in park and block the tires. It is important to block both the front side and back side of the tires with wheel chocks (a wooden block will do too - see image below) to make sure that the vehicle does not roll when jacking it up.2. Jack up Car and Insert Jack StandsCheck your auto repair manual to find the best location for the floor jack and the jack stands. Most cars and trucks have markings (usually arrows) on the sides under the body of the vehicle that show where to place jacks and jack stands.I prefer to jack the vehicle from the center under the engine, then place the jack stands on the sides. After the jack stands are placed I lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. This creates much more stability than with a jack alone. Sometimes I leave the jack under the engine too, just as a safeguard against the jackstands failing.3. Locate Oil Drain Plug and Oil FilterHow to change oil: Next you will need to locate the oil filter and oil drain plug. You should be able to find the locations in your owner's manual.The oil filter is usually located in the hardest possible place to reach...just kidding! It is usually on the side of the engine about halfway up. Sometimes it takes a lot of looking to find it. You might need to look from the top of the engine to see it.The oil drain plug is located on the bottom of the engine at the lowest point of the oil pan. Sometimes you will need to take off a skid plate or some type of plastic underbelly to get to both the oil filter and the oil pan drain plug.4. Remove Drain Plug and Drain Oil from CarAfter you have found the oil filter and drain plug, the next step in this how to change oil guide is to find the right sized socket, then loosen the drain plug with a socket wrench.The point of loosening the drain plug first is that it is much easier to do without the bulky drain pan in the way. Once it is loose you should put on work gloves to protect your hands, position an oil drain pan under the engine then remove the plug the rest of the way.Be sure to place the drain pan back further than you think it needs to be because the oil will likely shoot out about four to six inches from the drain hole.Always be sure to have a good way to store the used engine oil. The best way to do this is to have a dedicated gas can that is made for this purpose. If you use old milk jugs you will have a mess on your hands and in your car when you try to transport the jugs.When the gas can gets close to being full you can take it to most any auto parts store and they will empty it for free.

Question 27

Accepted Answer

Q: Is brake oil same as power steering oil?A:  No they not. Brake fluid is same with clutch fluid, even some car manufacture put both in one reservoir. Please don't put the brake fluid into the power steering, the hard chemical ingredients of brake fluid will blown all the seal and rubber material of the power steering. Power steering fluid is same with automatic transmission fluid, but please read the specification of transmission fluid before you pour to power steering reservoir, automatic transmission fluid (ATF) has many classification grade.

Question 28

Accepted Answer

Alternator problems are fairly common. You will probably have some type of problem with your alternator in your car's lifetime. The charging system on your car plays an essential role in everything electrical. If your charging system is not working correctly, it can cause major electrical problems so it pays to know a little bit about it. Let’s look at what they do and how to tell if there is something wrong.How Does an Alternator Work?An alternator's main purpose is to maintain the battery. Basically what happens is that it uses the engine power to create electricity and sends it over to the battery to keep it fully charged. Engine power is sent to the alternator via the engine drive belt, aka serpentine belt. This is why it is so important to keep the belt tight and replace it when needed.When you are driving your car with all the lights on, the windshield wipers on and the radio blasting it uses a lot of electrical power. If all you had was a battery all of this electricity usage would drain the battery in a matter of minutes (sometimes more like an hour depending on how good your battery is). To prevent this from happening and to keep our battery fully charged, we use an alternator.Signs of Alternator ProblemsIt can be very tricky to diagnose these problems without any tools. Battery problems often seem like alternator problems and vice versa. Some of the most common things that happen are things like your car not starting, your battery going dead, serpentine belt squealing and battery light on. These are the most common, but there are others as well.How to Check Alternator VoltageTo check if your alternator is faulty, you will need a digital volt ohmmeter or DVOM (aka voltmeter). With this tool you can quickly and easily see how much voltage your alternator is putting out.The first thing you should do is turn your engine off. You will need to start your car for a later test, but for now just leave it off. Take your voltmeter and put the red lead on the positive post of the battery and the black lead on the negative side of the battery. Be sure your voltmeter is set to read DC volts.It should read above 12.65 volts. This would indicate that the battery is fully charged. If it is not, then you either have alternator problems or a battery that is faulty.The next thing you need to do is to remove the leads from the battery and start your car. Then put the leads back on being careful not to get them caught in the serpentine belt or any other part of the engine.Read the voltage with the engine on. It should read somewhere in the 13.5-14.5 volt range. If it does then most likely the alternator is just fine. It is possible that it is still bad though, sometimes they are intermittently bad. If it proves to be good then you probably have battery problems. It is time to get the battery tested.Repairing a Defective AlternatorYou can either repair it yourself or take it to a repair shop. Alternator repair isn't too hard, but you will definitely need a serpentine belt diagram so that you can put it back on correctly.To troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. For this I personally use and recommend ALLDATAdiy. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manuals. This auto repair pretty much just requires that you disconnect the battery, remove the serpentine belt, then unbolt the alternator and remove the wiring connectors. Then just do everything in reverse to re-install it. If you decide to take this auto repair to a repair shop, it usually does not cost very much to have them repair it for you.

Question 29

Accepted Answer

Learn how to change brake pads and rotors on a car with this step by step picture guide written by a real mechanic.Is it hard to change brake pads and rotors? Anyone can do this job if they are able to follow instructions well and have the tools. Have some technicial experience would help but it's optional.Having replaced brake pads and rotors for hundreds of vehicles, I will reveal all the tips and tricks that I’ve learned over the years. In this guide, you will not only learn how to replace brake pads, but also how to change brake rotors too.To troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manualsTools Needed to Change Brake Pads and Rotors1. Position Floor Jack and Jack StandsPark your vehicle on a level surface, preferably on concrete or asphalt, put the car in “park”, set the emergency brake and put blocks under the rear wheels. Grab your floor jackand jack stands before finding an appropriate place to jack up the vehicle.If you are changing brake pads for the first time, then you should look up your owner's manual to confirm where to jack up your vehicle. I sometimes will just jack it up using the lower control arm. You can see my jack setup in the picture. DO NOT JACK UP THE VEHICLE YET!2. Remove Wheel Cover and Tires Sometimes there is a wheel cover that needs to be taken off. Most of the time you can just use a pry bar to pry it off of the rim. Using a large socket wrench and the correct sized socket, loosen the lugnuts in a criss cross pattern. Be sure not to loosen them all the way as the weight of the vehicle is still on the tires. Be sure to loosen both sides.3. Jack Up Vehicle and Insert Jack StandsAfter the lug nuts are loose you can then jack up the car. Be sure to go slowly and not any higher then necessary to get the tires off the ground and the jack stands under it for support.When I first learned how to change brake pads I would just skip the jack stands, but they are very important because the jack might fail and you will probably be sitting right under the brake rotor!4. Remove Lug NutsRemove the lug nuts with a socket wrench then remove the tire and set it aside. Sometimes I will place the tire near the brakes so I can use it as a stool to sit on. This makes the job more enjoyable and makes it easier to see what I’m working on.Now that the tire is removed you can closely inspect the brake pads and rotor. Be sure to make mental notes of how everything is arranged so it will be easier to get it back together. If you are just learning how to change brake pads and rotors then you might even want to snap some pictures for reference in case you forget or don’t have a repair manual to use.

Question 30

Accepted Answer

Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Replacement Tools Required D1051 Wheel Hub Remover (this is a fairly generic tool you can rent from some parts stores - you may or may not need this tool - you won't know for sure until you remove the hub nut as outlined below) Removal Procedure Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the tire and wheel. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2), if equipped. Remove the wheel speed sensor electrical connector from the bracket, if equipped. Remove the front wheel drive shaft nut. Insert a drift or flat-bladed tool into the caliper and rotor to prevent from turning. Remove the brake rotor. (Removing the dront driveshaft nut is going to be the hardest part of the repair. It is a large nut - 36mm if I remember correctly - and torqued to over 140 ft lbs) Use 3 wheel nuts in order to attach the D1051 to the wheel bearing/hub. Use the D1051 in order to push the wheel drive shaft out of the wheel bearing/hub. (often times the drive shaft will push out of the hub with only hand pressure - the older and more rust on it, the more likely you are to need the tool to overcome the rust) Remove and DISCARD the wheel bearing/hub bolts. Remove the D1051 from the hub. Important: Ensure that the wheel drive shaft outer seal/boot is not damaged. Remove the wheel bearing/hub and splash shield-noting the position of the shield for re-installation. Installation Procedure Install the wheel bearing/hub with the splash shield as noted during removal. Caution: These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury. Install NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts. Tighten Tighten the NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts to 130 N·m (96 lb ft). Install the brake rotor and caliper. Install the front wheel drive shaft nut. Insert a drift on a flat-bladed tool into caliper and rotor to prevent the rotor from turning. Tighten Tighten the front wheel drive shaft nut to 160 N·m (118 lb ft). Important: Ensure that the connector clip engages the bracket properly. Install the wheel speed sensor electrical connector to the bracket, if equipped. Connect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2), if equipped. Install the tire and Lower the vehicle.

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